Does anyone else do this to winterize their motors? Is it safe?
09-28-2009 | 09:28 AM
#11
Frank's Marine Service
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 11,959
Likes: 142
From: Elkton, MD
that's the most effiecient way of doing it... Just be sure you drain the block/exhaust down first. It's best to not mix the anti-freeze with water because you can never be sure it's pure and mixed in well. Especially if you live in the north country! 
I usually put in the stabil on the last run. Then when I'm ready to winterize I run the engines for 10-15 minutes getting them up to temp and the oil warmed up so it's easier to change the oil. Then change the oil and filters. Drain the block/manifolds, run the antifreeze thru the system and the moment it starts coming out the tailpipes I fog the engine and shut it down. Then you're done. After that I CRC the engine top to bottom.
Lots of other things that I do in addition to that but that basically covers the engine.
I usually put in the stabil on the last run. Then when I'm ready to winterize I run the engines for 10-15 minutes getting them up to temp and the oil warmed up so it's easier to change the oil. Then change the oil and filters. Drain the block/manifolds, run the antifreeze thru the system and the moment it starts coming out the tailpipes I fog the engine and shut it down. Then you're done. After that I CRC the engine top to bottom.
Lots of other things that I do in addition to that but that basically covers the engine.
09-28-2009 | 10:41 AM
#12
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,592
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From: Owensboro, KY
That is basically what I had in mind and I am familiar wihh the petcock valves just didn't know that is what they are called. So is this the best steps for it?
1. Hook mufflers up to water hose
2. Fire motors and get up to normal running temp
3. Shut off water and allow motors to run momentarily until no water exiting through exhaust
4. Hook in my antifreeze contraption and run motor until it comes out exhaust then seafoam the carb until it cuts out
is it necessary to pull all the petcock valves if you do this? For the fuel I usually try and run my tanks almost empty and dump like 5 gallons of 110 in each tank for winter on my old boat just to keep octane level up over winter. Boat will be stored in a dry area so tanks shouldn't ever get water in them.
Can't wait until next year when the HEATED shop is done
What about my fresh water tank and toilet and sink?
1. Hook mufflers up to water hose
2. Fire motors and get up to normal running temp
3. Shut off water and allow motors to run momentarily until no water exiting through exhaust
4. Hook in my antifreeze contraption and run motor until it comes out exhaust then seafoam the carb until it cuts out
is it necessary to pull all the petcock valves if you do this? For the fuel I usually try and run my tanks almost empty and dump like 5 gallons of 110 in each tank for winter on my old boat just to keep octane level up over winter. Boat will be stored in a dry area so tanks shouldn't ever get water in them.
Can't wait until next year when the HEATED shop is done
What about my fresh water tank and toilet and sink?
09-28-2009 | 12:59 PM
#14
Frank's Marine Service
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 11,959
Likes: 142
From: Elkton, MD
No, you need to drain the water from at minimum the engine block and manifolds. there is a small amount of water that will be in the hoses between teh raw water pump and the engine but it's not enough to dilute the solution.
I've added to your steps below.
Freshwater tank.
Do you have a hot water heater? If yes then you must drain the hot water heater and bypass it. First step it so run all the fresh water out of the fresh water tank. Then if you have a hot water heater you drain it out and run a bypass hose to cut the hot water heater out of the loop. Pour 1/2 to 1 gallon of RV Antifreeze in the holding tank and run the faucet until you see pink.
For the crapper... ****Pump all the crap out**** People skip this important step and that becomes a chitty mess, literally!!. Then find the raw water hose and detach it and hook up a hose that goes to your antifreeze canister. Pump or run the chitter for like 30 seconds and you'll see pink. You can also dump a 1/2 gallon of antifreeze in the chitter and flush it so some anti freeze goes into your holding tank..
I've added to your steps below.
That is basically what I had in mind and I am familiar wihh the petcock valves just didn't know that is what they are called. So is this the best steps for it?
1. Hook engine up to water hose
2. Fire motors and get up to normal running temp
3. Shut off engines and drain water from engine block and exhaust manifolds. There are two plugs located on the lower sides of the eingine block. Sometimes there's petcoks, orthertimes it's just a 9/16" pipe plug. If your exhaust has petcocks on it you can pull them to drain the water or simply pull the lower hose to drain the water.
4. Hook up the anti freeze run motor until it comes out exhaust then seafoam (or whatever your choice of poison is) the carb until the engine starts smoking. Don't do it so much that the engine cuts out, you might hydrolock it and that's a big problem and you can bend rods and/or pushrods. Just put enough down the carb until the engine starts smoking heavily and shut it down.
What about my fresh water tank and toilet and sink?
1. Hook engine up to water hose
2. Fire motors and get up to normal running temp
3. Shut off engines and drain water from engine block and exhaust manifolds. There are two plugs located on the lower sides of the eingine block. Sometimes there's petcoks, orthertimes it's just a 9/16" pipe plug. If your exhaust has petcocks on it you can pull them to drain the water or simply pull the lower hose to drain the water.
4. Hook up the anti freeze run motor until it comes out exhaust then seafoam (or whatever your choice of poison is) the carb until the engine starts smoking. Don't do it so much that the engine cuts out, you might hydrolock it and that's a big problem and you can bend rods and/or pushrods. Just put enough down the carb until the engine starts smoking heavily and shut it down.
What about my fresh water tank and toilet and sink?
Do you have a hot water heater? If yes then you must drain the hot water heater and bypass it. First step it so run all the fresh water out of the fresh water tank. Then if you have a hot water heater you drain it out and run a bypass hose to cut the hot water heater out of the loop. Pour 1/2 to 1 gallon of RV Antifreeze in the holding tank and run the faucet until you see pink.
For the crapper... ****Pump all the crap out**** People skip this important step and that becomes a chitty mess, literally!!. Then find the raw water hose and detach it and hook up a hose that goes to your antifreeze canister. Pump or run the chitter for like 30 seconds and you'll see pink. You can also dump a 1/2 gallon of antifreeze in the chitter and flush it so some anti freeze goes into your holding tank..
Last edited by Panther; 09-28-2009 at 01:02 PM.
10-24-2009 | 05:16 PM
#15
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 62
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From: michigan city in.
The way I winterize
1 add stabil to gas tank
2 warm engines on garden hose
3 change oil and filter
4 pull off large hose at bottom on front right side of engine
5 replace hose after water drains
6 I have blue plastic 55 g. barrel cut in half from top to bottom that goes under drive and a small sump pump, (small pc of tarp to run anti-f back to barrel) hook up to outdrive with short hose and muffs and circulate antifreeze through running engine until engine thermo. opens ,,then fog and kill engine
as for cold freshwater ,, run till empty,, add 1/2 gal. -50 run till empty ,, add the other 1/2 gal run till empty... done
doesn't mean its the right way ,, but it works for me
1 add stabil to gas tank
2 warm engines on garden hose
3 change oil and filter
4 pull off large hose at bottom on front right side of engine
5 replace hose after water drains
6 I have blue plastic 55 g. barrel cut in half from top to bottom that goes under drive and a small sump pump, (small pc of tarp to run anti-f back to barrel) hook up to outdrive with short hose and muffs and circulate antifreeze through running engine until engine thermo. opens ,,then fog and kill engine
as for cold freshwater ,, run till empty,, add 1/2 gal. -50 run till empty ,, add the other 1/2 gal run till empty... done
doesn't mean its the right way ,, but it works for me
10-24-2009 | 06:06 PM
#16
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,960
Likes: 7
From: Sandown, NH - Sebago Lake Region, ME
I have heard that with the new POS fuels out there today adding stabil only gets you about 90 days before the fuel starts to go bad. Up here in the north winter lasts a lot longer the 3 months. I typically drain my fuel tanks and pump it into my truck. Has no one had a problem running fuel that has sat all winter?
10-25-2009 | 01:03 PM
#17
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 337
Likes: 2
From: Central New York
I have heard that with the new POS fuels out there today adding stabil only gets you about 90 days before the fuel starts to go bad. Up here in the north winter lasts a lot longer the 3 months. I typically drain my fuel tanks and pump it into my truck. Has no one had a problem running fuel that has sat all winter?
I MAY have had a problem this spring, but I think it may have been a bad o-ring on the gas cap and the rain water getting in the tank. Not sure which, but I do know I had a little water in the gas and put me out of commission for a weekend tracing the problem.
10-29-2009 | 11:09 PM
#18
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: michigan city in.
First time out in the spring I usually add some fresh gas 30-40gals and then try and run the tank empty ,, then refuel as usual.. gas normally stays in tank 7-8 months over fall winter and early spring,, I personally think gas stays usable longer than they claim,, and stabil has to help,,
..........just my opinion
..........just my opinion
