Motor life ?
#1
Motor life ?
I would like to know what kind of motor life you guy's are getting in your apache's? I know that there are a gizillion differant things to look at with a question like this.... Motor builder, your driving habat's, maintance program.... Etc
Lets take all those things out of the picture and just answer with what HP and the avg hours you run it before rebuild?
This question includes the blow ups and the screw up's...
we have Twin blown 572's= 850hp
Avg life span= 25-50 hours
Lets take all those things out of the picture and just answer with what HP and the avg hours you run it before rebuild?
This question includes the blow ups and the screw up's...
we have Twin blown 572's= 850hp
Avg life span= 25-50 hours
#2
Registered
After having many sets of big blower motors,here is the recipe for long life-hundreds of hours and more
Only use a well known builder
Only use the best parts possible
Always run low boost 4-5 lbs
Always try to run not in the boost
boost= $$$$$$$$$
Seems to work for me-
Only use a well known builder
Only use the best parts possible
Always run low boost 4-5 lbs
Always try to run not in the boost
boost= $$$$$$$$$
Seems to work for me-
#3
After having many sets of big blower motors,here is the recipe for long life-hundreds of hours and more
Only use a well known builder
Only use the best parts possible
Always run low boost 4-5 lbs
Always try to run not in the boost
boost= $$$$$$$$$
Seems to work for me-
Only use a well known builder
Only use the best parts possible
Always run low boost 4-5 lbs
Always try to run not in the boost
boost= $$$$$$$$$
Seems to work for me-
"a well known builder" with a real good reputation....me, i go apprx. 250 hours and change it all from the prop nut to the waterpump....less grafix more spare parts.......m.m...
#4
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
After having many sets of big blower motors,here is the recipe for long life-hundreds of hours and more
Only use a well known builder
Only use the best parts possible
Always run low boost 4-5 lbs
Always try to run not in the boost
boost= $$$$$$$$$
Seems to work for me-
Only use a well known builder
Only use the best parts possible
Always run low boost 4-5 lbs
Always try to run not in the boost
boost= $$$$$$$$$
Seems to work for me-
That same formula works for me too!
#5
We do the same thing here.
"well known builder"
Not one second best part! Top of the line!
3-5 lbs of boost
Dyno tested before going in.
oil changes (mobile syn) ever 15 hours
Every nut,bolt and fluild level is checked prior to going out.
Visuals of bildge during boating are done every 15-20 min.
Even a motor that is running perfect gets rebuilt between 80-100hrs.
I have had a bad string of luck the last 2 seasons hense the reason for this post.
we are running water temp at about 140 and oil temp of around 300 deg, Water pressure is about 17psi at 4200 rpm and beyond. The rev limiter is set at 6200. The motor's are not really making boost untill 4500 and up and max at 5 psi.
The timming is set to a rock soild 35 deg. We run nothing less then 93 octane durning play time and durning a race only race fuel. The boat see's 6200 rpm's once in awhile but not for real long period of time.( 20-30 mins.) And we never hit the rev limiters. She runs in the upper 80's with 4 blades.
In short I feel that the preventive maintenance program is beyond what we should have to do. The boat and motor's are cared for like a new born.
Just wanted to ask what you guy's are getting out of your set up's. We have all heard... "beacuse of the apache weight" "beacuse of the old design" beacuse...beacuse...beacuse BLAH. I happen to disagree with all those old storys! The motor's should run! It might not be as fast as the boat next to you.... or might not be able to get up on plane...But the dam thing should and better stay togeather!
And thanks for the reply's.
"well known builder"
Not one second best part! Top of the line!
3-5 lbs of boost
Dyno tested before going in.
oil changes (mobile syn) ever 15 hours
Every nut,bolt and fluild level is checked prior to going out.
Visuals of bildge during boating are done every 15-20 min.
Even a motor that is running perfect gets rebuilt between 80-100hrs.
I have had a bad string of luck the last 2 seasons hense the reason for this post.
we are running water temp at about 140 and oil temp of around 300 deg, Water pressure is about 17psi at 4200 rpm and beyond. The rev limiter is set at 6200. The motor's are not really making boost untill 4500 and up and max at 5 psi.
The timming is set to a rock soild 35 deg. We run nothing less then 93 octane durning play time and durning a race only race fuel. The boat see's 6200 rpm's once in awhile but not for real long period of time.( 20-30 mins.) And we never hit the rev limiters. She runs in the upper 80's with 4 blades.
In short I feel that the preventive maintenance program is beyond what we should have to do. The boat and motor's are cared for like a new born.
Just wanted to ask what you guy's are getting out of your set up's. We have all heard... "beacuse of the apache weight" "beacuse of the old design" beacuse...beacuse...beacuse BLAH. I happen to disagree with all those old storys! The motor's should run! It might not be as fast as the boat next to you.... or might not be able to get up on plane...But the dam thing should and better stay togeather!
And thanks for the reply's.
#8
Registered
Timing is another issue-we run 30 deg-easy does it
Oil changes after each poker run or every 10 hrs-cheap Ins.
Shell Rotila 15w-40 with BG additive-works well
Never take the motors past 5500 rpm-live long,be happy
Water pressure is 20 psi-
Oil temp is around 190
Oil changes after each poker run or every 10 hrs-cheap Ins.
Shell Rotila 15w-40 with BG additive-works well
Never take the motors past 5500 rpm-live long,be happy
Water pressure is 20 psi-
Oil temp is around 190
Last edited by Sacred Ground; 07-24-2007 at 04:02 PM.
#10