razor1115

Guys, Any help here? I did a search and read A LOT of the responses on this forum to make sure I had the thing hooked up correctly. I had the 4 wire style originally. Hooked the orange + wire to the alternator + (goes to starter solenoid and battery tied in there). The ground was left hanging and grounded both - didn't make a difference. The other two wires for the regulator were seperated and left unconected. As far as I know, it's wired correctly...4-wire worked ok last year but was NOT marine. Also could never get belt tight enough to keep from slipping easliy. Does this indicate a high electrical load on the alternator and the belt is having trouble turning the pulley/alternator? I replaced with marine.

I was heating the oil to change for the upcoming season. I understand that this is a "self-exciter." Ran engine for 15 min from idle to 3500 rpm; some revs up to ~4000...

Still NO CHARGING. Gage is reading ~11 volts. What now? Any suggestions?

I also have an issue while boat is running. The gage needles can fluctuate slightly (possibly bad ground?). The tach does not go to zero with the engine off. In fact, I know where the idle is set on the engine and the tach can read 500-1000 rpm higher than what I know is FACT! Replaced tach thinking it was bad, as I could "rap" on the old one and needle would drop back to correct rpm. Checked tach sender connection at coil and is ok ....

Regards
Zack

Wobble

I use the one wire type, it has to see battery voltage and at least 1200 rpm before it will charge. If you have a solid state battery isolator for charging purposes on multiple batteries this is a possible problem. You can either do away with the isolator or run battery voltage thru a diode to alternator output.

Re your tach, normal to show RPM where engine turned off with some brands. But need to check if tach is compatable with your ignition system.

razor1115

Guys,

Thanks for the advice...I do not have a solid-state isolator. I was running directly to one battery to make sure the alt. functioned. I will check voltage output. Supplier said all wired correctly, must be a bad unit - send it back

Start trouble shooting tonight

Zack

razor1115

Guys,

Wired correctly...electric fuel pump was the culprit. Was wired directly to the coil. Ran jumper from pump to battery, alternator charging/all gauges reading accurately. Tried to use the 12V purple wire from the old Delco-style alternator as a keyed power source for the fuel pump. Did not work as it affected the gauges in the same manner.

Did a search as I remember most used at least a relay when running an electric pump and added a oil press switch as a safety. Thanks for all the great info. Ordered my relay kit from Painless, problem solved...

Regards
Zack

razor1115

FYI, also another note!!! Noticed always had problem starting engine if it didn't stay fired on the first try... Would fire right up, die if too cold. Try to restart and would act like flooded/loaded up.

No problems after re-wiring fuel pump. Assuming that the current split at the coil from the pump being wired in parallel was affectig the output of the coil by reducing the input to the coil?

Zack