CNC

I have just replaced my nonfunctioning shoes for discs. In the instructions they say to remove the "check valve" from the master cylinder.....but know no more info??? Has any one done this I can't
seem to find the check valve to remove it.

Thanks
Randy

synack

They never really clarify that for some reason. When I installed my tiedown system, I wound up disassembling the entire unit to remove the check valve.

Then I read that you could just pierce it with a punch. That would have been a lot easier. Maybe yours is the same.

CNC

Just peirce it w/a punch??? Please explain more....this would save a bunch of extra work.....

Thanks
Randy

ratman

i just installed disc brakes and am using the titan/brake rite elec over hyd master cyl. i like it a lot.

Old Navy

Just did a complete disc conversion on my trailer. Used the Kodiak disc kit. The check valve is hooked to the end of the spring INSIDE the master cyl. The master cyl has to be removed and disassembled to take it out. The part that needs to come out is a shiny metal disc with holes in it. Most sources I found recommended not to pierce it but remove it. Also, take off the brass adapter on the outlet to the master cyl and change it with a brake line adapter with a larger hole (any auto parts store $2), notice the drum adapter will have a tiny metering orifice instead of a reg size hole. The drum brake system required residual pressure for better responding brakes, wheras the disc's will fry if residual pressure is applied while towing. Don't forget to add a reversing solenoid or the disc brakes will apply when you try to back up. A waterproof racecar line lock (I used a TCI that was laying around) will work. It has to br powered from the back up light circuit or your tow vehicle.

mopower

And don't try to backup right after stopping. You must roll forward a bit to release pressure in system first THEN without hitting the brakes again put it in reverse to "lock oout" the brakes and proceed in reverse .