Superboat Guy

Trying to install a dual ram Imco system on a 271 Formula, single Bravo. After doing the layout on the transom, we found that the cylinder mounts line up to the stringers. If we keep the rams on the crank shaft centerline we are well in to them. We would need to raise the mounts four inches up off the centerline. The layout instructions say "Important, keep cylinders on drive shaft centerline". What's the trick to doing this? Use longer pistons/rams? If I use longer rams then I still need to get under the flooring in the engine compartment, not fun but do able, the rams we have are not returnable, so were stuck with them. Ideas??

oldandtired

I had some questions along the same lines and called IMCO. They said it is OK to go up some, but never down. I don't know if 4" is pushing it. I would call them and ask, they were really helpfull when I called. One thing I would recommend to you is to use a laser level when lining everything up on the transom. I was going crazy with rulers and levels until I used the laser. The laser made everything better and easier.

Good luck,

Rene

Pismo10

The last laser level I bought was off by 4" over a 20' span so be careful.

GOODT

best info I can give you is K.I.S.S go to the local dealer and check out some differnt setups Ive installed quite a few of the imco and M&M systems never a problem just time consuming and making the lines are a pain in the as*

32storm

You have a few options. First most manufacturers offer different length cylinders to accomodate placement issues. Perhaps a different length cylinder will clear your stringers. If you contact the varoius manufacturers, they can give you a dimension from either the side of the outdrive housing to the centerline of the transom bracket, or from crank shaft centerline to centerline of transom bracket.

WPM Racing does have a wingplate design that utilizes either a top bolt, or bottom bolt of the cylinder. This does position the transom bracket off from the crankshaft centerline. But, it won't be 4".

Falcon

The problem with going up or down from center is that the cylinders will change length more with trim. Let's say you mount above center, when you trim up, both cylinders have to compress at the same time. This causes extra load through the gimbal ring(s) and hardware. It will bleed down, probably through the helm and possibly back to the pump (if it couldn't, it would break something!). If you happen to be turning the wheel at the same time it won't be a problem. The other thing this causes is more difference in reservoir level at different trim positions. The MC Six and ITS don't have this problem.
I would investigate other cylinder length options.

ls1nova

What about using a lag bolt? If it's only one of the bolts then that might be an option. I would make sure you can get at least 3 other through bolts in there though.

I ran into the same situation with my Velocity. I was told by the steering manufacturer that moving up 1 or 1.5" is ok, but not to go any farther than that, due to the increased pressure on the gimble while triming up. I ended up 1" above the center line and everything is perfect. I used a square off the side of the transom assembly.

Frank

HiPerf2000

iTrader: (2)

I know this is a very old thread, but I have a friend with the same problem. was this ever resolved ?

jwurl

I also have a Fastech 271. You have the wrong Imco kit. I put the Imco SA-2 kit on with no problems. Sounds like you have the kit with the longer rams. Jeff Wurl

HiPerf2000

iTrader: (2)

so the sa-2 has the shorter rams and your mounts ended up clearing the stringers ?

do you have the mounts with the built in hyd. connections ?