nordic95

I tried using the Merc. slide hamer with the inner jaws but the bearing just won't budge.I looked in the book and they show to use the jaws and a puller part number 91-31229a7 at 287.00.I'm not looking to make a career out of this just help a friend out,Any one have any ideas or methods on how they do it.I already have the install tools but just hate to spend more money.


Nordic95

tzrider

iTrader: (-1)

I was in a similar situation helping a friend and the only resolve I had was to carefully cut the bearing out with an air cutter and cut off wheel. I know it sounds arcaic but it was the only way and with some careful attention as well as sealing the inner off debris was kept to a minimum. New bearing went in fine and hours and hours of use all is well

brian41

iTrader: (1)

I use OTC large slide hamer and they can be a ***** but I have always gotten them out. Brian

blue thunder

Make sure when you reinstall the housing to have the notches facing out. Then next time you won't have to pull the housing to change the bearing. Just rotate it 90 degrees and slide it out the notches. You may want to have a peek now to make sure the notches are not facing out already.

BT

nordic95

What notches are you tslking about???

Nordic95

Hydrolift

Her are a schematic of the bearing and the carrier. If you can see the "dot" like in pic A you can not remove the bearing from the carrier. If it looks like pic. B, you can remove the bearing from the carrier.

But the Merc. manual states: IMPORTANT Gimbal bearing and carrier are a matched set and must be replaced as an assembly. Tolerance ring must be replaced any time the gimbal bearing is removed.

Take a look at this to http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...d.php?t=134043

nordic95

I have the red dot but I still cant get it to move at all.I installed a larger 2 pound slide hammer but that still has not worked.


Nordic95

Hydrolift

I could not get the bearing out using the slide hammer. Had to make my own tool and pull it out with a screw and nut. The bearing had been sitting there since '87-88.

Don't forget to be careful so you don't damage the grease seal on the inside.

bowtie

nordic95 where are you in NJ. If your close I have the tools to get it out and I'll pull it out for you.

oldandtired

Found my old post on this. It works pretty well

I have changed several in the last year. The first one was a horrible task. The slide hammer method sucks big time! I pulled the old one using a length of 1/2" threaded rod, nuts, washers, and a block of wood. I'll do my best to explain it.

1) Pull the drive
2) Drill a hole through the block of wood in the middle which you are going to put the threaded rod through. The block needs to be wider than the mounting studs for the outdrive ( I use a 2x8x12").
3) This part needs an extra set of hands. Slide the threaded rod through the bore of the gimbal bearing and place a stack of washers behind the bearing followed by a nut. 1/2" heavy galvanized washers from home depot have worked well for me. You need to make sure that they are big ehough to not fit through the bore of the bearing, but you don't want them to rip out your seal either. Take your new bearing to the hardware store when you're looking for the washers. Make sure that you use a thick stack of washers or they may deform enough to go through the bore of the bearing.
4) Place the block of wood over the mounting studs with the rod through it. Follow up with a washer and a nut. When you tighten down on the nut, it will pull the bearing. If it slips through the bore, change your washers to slightly bigger ones or use a taller stack of washers.

At this point your bearing should be out. This is a cool trick that I learned installing the new bearing. Take your old bearing apart by removing the bearing from the carrier by finding the install slots, rotating the bearing and popping it out of the carrier. Push the new bearing into its place by hand so that it doesn't fall out. Make sure that everything is lined up. Then use the alignment tool as a driver by placing the old bearing onto the shaft of the alignment tool followed by the old carrier. This will make a driving tool that is the perfect size for the new bearing. Drive the new bearing home and it's in.

Obviously, check for water leaks while you have the drive off and check your bellows (these are the most likely reasons for bearing failure). Prior to installing the drive check your engine alignment. The last small hurdle is the alignment of the bore of the bearing. It is a spherical roller bearing, so it has some room for angular misalignment. I use the alignment tool as if i was checking alignment and hit it firmly on the end with a hammer. If you have some bearing misalignment, you will go crazy trying to align the engine, so you probably want to do this step first. The last thing is to install your outdrive, make sure everything is sealed up tight (I glue everything) and grease everything up. If the outdrive is giving you a hard time getting stuck while you are installing it, check the bore alignment of the bearing again, it may need some "influence."

Good luck, I know that these are my ****ty shade tree ways, but it has worked well for me without going crazy at the tools department.

Rene