offshoreratboy

Looking for info on x dimension set up. I'm re rigging a Formula 357 with bravos (check out the link in fiberglass and paint) and want to know how to do all the math from start to finish. I would like to get half way between conservative and aggresive. Formula said only that the x dimension was 15 1/2". I have the width figured out and I have old x dimesion from the trs rigging. I figured that the crank to propshaft measurement difference between the bravo and trs is 2 1/2" shorter. So If I wanted to keep it consevative I could go off those numbers by simply lowering the old trs x dimesion by 2 1/2". How much is to much...I know that I can always get spacers laterif I get them to high, but would rather get real close if possible.

Thanks Joe

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...d.php?t=145051

Pat McPherson

The X dimension is the distance for the crank center to the bottom of the hull. With a X of 15-1/2", the drive would be quite deep by today's standards.
I believe a Bravo is like 22-1/2" from crank center to prop center. That would have the prop shaft some 7" below the bottom. Personally, I don't think you need to be lower than that.
The TRS drives were mounted deep back in the day. Prop technology was also vary different.
I'd keep the engines at the same height that they were with the TRS drives.

AIR TIME

MOST NEW BOATS and my old like it between 5 1/2'' to 5''

kkgosll

hey joe i did the same thing you are about to do i have a 34 scarab so basicly the same hull or similiar,i searched for the same info for month and i found it in in a article in powerboat bob teague said on older boats like ours to set the propshaft depth at 4 to 5 inches below the hull i set mine at 4 1/2 and it worked perfect for my boat you will have to get 4 blades like i did, no cavatation, great getting on plan even with 8 people

offshoreratboy

Thankyou! Man this is a subject that is very hard to decribe with out a drawing so I made one. My only problem is I can only go so high with my engines. (blowers) They are 1/4" awayfrom the hatch right now and I don't want to cut holes in it. So with this setup my propshaft will end up 5 3/4" deep. That is a little deeper than I wanted but you can't have everything in life...The prop should still surface a little. I can always go with shorties later when I hit the lottery! Still might consider raising the extra inch and raising the hatch a bit. That would give me 4 3/4". Which I would be happier with. It's hard to believe that Formula engineers came up with a propshaft hight of 8 1/4". They knew about surfacing props back then...the boat came with them!

Joe

CIG3

Prop technology has come a long way since your boat was build. The day of the Merc. Clever is long gone. The new four and five blade prop allow for better plaining and low speed use, where the old clever use usless with raised "X" dimensions. I agree with everyone try to get as close to that 4.5 inch number as possible.

offshoreratboy

So that three blade cleaver was not meant to be a surfacing prop? I had always thought that was the reason for the pointy tips... I use hyromitive 4 blades, I know they could not have been surfacing at the depth they were at.

Joe

Zanie

I rerigged my 1984 Excalibur 31 from TRS with the merc trans to bravos and couldn't be happier.
My boat has a pad bottom and a notched transom. My stock X dimension was 18-1/2 and I upped it to 19. The bow used to bury itself at speed before and scrub off speed. Now it's a little trickeyer to get on plane (with my 26 pitch 4 blade Bravo1 props) but other than that I love it. It carries the nose beautifully.
I thinke my prop centerline to bottom of the boat was like 5-1/2 (I never measured it before disassembly), but now it's 2-1/2.
Good luck,
Dan

offshoreratboy

Thank god there is someone out there who has done this. Thanks for the post. I'm affaraid to go that high without the notch but I did do some more measuring today and I think I can get another inch out of the new set-up I forgot that as you go back (as I will be by chucking the trs trasmision) I will get at least one more inch of hatch clearence. 4 3/4" will be better than I thought I would be able to achive when I started measuring.

Joe

cstobe

Is a prop shaft centerline measurement of 4.5 inches below the keel the optimal measurement or what you can expect from the trs to bravo swap? My 271 fastec is at 4.5 & I wonder if a 2" shorty would be of benefit? Would that be a wise step in the 3 year plan to more HP?