502 closed cooling.
06-10-2007, 06:48 AM
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502 closed cooling.
going to convert my 502 mag mpi's to closed cooling. there seem to be several kits available. anyone have any sage advice as to which may be better than any others ?
06-10-2007, 07:47 AM
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I hate the winter!!
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I used the OEM Mecr kit on my 454 Magnum. Fit and worked great. When I upgraded power to my current 540, I bolted the kit on my new engine. I was a bit leary about its cooling capacity, being that the new engine has 94 more cubic inches and almost 300 more horsepower. It ended up working great. It keeps the engine between 170* and 180* even after hard runs.
06-10-2007, 08:18 AM
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http://oceaneastmarine.com/freshwater.html
I use the econo-kool full system for the big block. The big block kit has a 5" diameter heat exchanger which is good to 600HP. I mounted it on the stringer under the engine.
I recommend not getting their hose kit and finding your local hydraulic hose/rubber supply place and buying wire reinforced hoses. It's expensive (like $4 a foot), but I just did this after running normal rubber hose for a season and a half. The wire stuff doesn't kink, looks better, and is abrasion proof. Wait until the heat exchanger is mounted, then measure up. You'll need 1 3/4" hose for the upper and lower "radiator" hoses. 1 1/4" hose for the raw water side. 1" hose for the exhaust lines. I also recommend going to west marine and getting their 4 5/8" stainless t-bolt clamps to hold the exchanger to the brackets. The worm clamps kept coming loose.
You can get a "full system" that cools the lower exhaust manifolds with anti-freeze, but you have to have block off plates in the risers so the raw water goes into the risers. Then there's an abortion of a thermostat housing that bolts on the engine to allow the 1" supply and return lines to the exhaust. I ran that setup, but with my recent whipple supercharger setup, I decided to ditch the full system and go "half system" which is only the engine block cooled with anti-freeze. The exhaust now see raw water, which isn't bad since I have dana marine hard anodized manifolds. So I recommend the cheaper half system.
Here's my old writeup from the donzi forum:
About time I updated this posting with my closed loop cooling system install complete.
Overall the system is great and works perfectly. It took me a couple of weeks of tinkering in the engine compartment fiddling with hoses and fittings to get it all rigged up perfect.
Make friends with your local hydraulic/hose supply company. I used Goodyear red rubber hose- need about 15' of 1" hose for the exhaust loop, lots of 1 1/4" for the raw water loop to the cooler, 1 3/4" for the upper and lower hoses. Measure it all out, then double it. In the end I couldn't get a clean run from the lower water pump inlet past my v-belt tensioner to the exchanger- I found a corrogated chrome plated copper cooling hose from www.coolflex.com that fits great.
The cooling loops is: raw water raw water pump, heat exhanger, power steering cooler, oil cooler, then splits to each exhaust elbow. Ideally, you'd want the oil cooler cooled first, but that wasn't feasable with my install.
Temp holds perfectly at 180 degrees.
Now to winterize the engine, I made a "beer bong" with a spare merc earmuff flushing device, hooked to a barbed fitting to a 1" clear hose to a big funnel. I hook it all up, start pouring in bio-degradable (and dog safe) antifreeze, have a buddy fire up the engine, keep pouring until it comes out the exhaust- takes about 2 gallons. Shut it down, and now the whole raw side is full of antifreeze and you're good to go for the winter! If you want to fog the engine too, take off the raw water pump belt so the antifreeze stays in the engine. Now you can run it for couple of minutes- watch you don't overheat the rubber exhaust hoses.
I use the econo-kool full system for the big block. The big block kit has a 5" diameter heat exchanger which is good to 600HP. I mounted it on the stringer under the engine.
I recommend not getting their hose kit and finding your local hydraulic hose/rubber supply place and buying wire reinforced hoses. It's expensive (like $4 a foot), but I just did this after running normal rubber hose for a season and a half. The wire stuff doesn't kink, looks better, and is abrasion proof. Wait until the heat exchanger is mounted, then measure up. You'll need 1 3/4" hose for the upper and lower "radiator" hoses. 1 1/4" hose for the raw water side. 1" hose for the exhaust lines. I also recommend going to west marine and getting their 4 5/8" stainless t-bolt clamps to hold the exchanger to the brackets. The worm clamps kept coming loose.
You can get a "full system" that cools the lower exhaust manifolds with anti-freeze, but you have to have block off plates in the risers so the raw water goes into the risers. Then there's an abortion of a thermostat housing that bolts on the engine to allow the 1" supply and return lines to the exhaust. I ran that setup, but with my recent whipple supercharger setup, I decided to ditch the full system and go "half system" which is only the engine block cooled with anti-freeze. The exhaust now see raw water, which isn't bad since I have dana marine hard anodized manifolds. So I recommend the cheaper half system.
Here's my old writeup from the donzi forum:
About time I updated this posting with my closed loop cooling system install complete.
Overall the system is great and works perfectly. It took me a couple of weeks of tinkering in the engine compartment fiddling with hoses and fittings to get it all rigged up perfect.
Make friends with your local hydraulic/hose supply company. I used Goodyear red rubber hose- need about 15' of 1" hose for the exhaust loop, lots of 1 1/4" for the raw water loop to the cooler, 1 3/4" for the upper and lower hoses. Measure it all out, then double it. In the end I couldn't get a clean run from the lower water pump inlet past my v-belt tensioner to the exchanger- I found a corrogated chrome plated copper cooling hose from www.coolflex.com that fits great.
The cooling loops is: raw water raw water pump, heat exhanger, power steering cooler, oil cooler, then splits to each exhaust elbow. Ideally, you'd want the oil cooler cooled first, but that wasn't feasable with my install.
Temp holds perfectly at 180 degrees.
Now to winterize the engine, I made a "beer bong" with a spare merc earmuff flushing device, hooked to a barbed fitting to a 1" clear hose to a big funnel. I hook it all up, start pouring in bio-degradable (and dog safe) antifreeze, have a buddy fire up the engine, keep pouring until it comes out the exhaust- takes about 2 gallons. Shut it down, and now the whole raw side is full of antifreeze and you're good to go for the winter! If you want to fog the engine too, take off the raw water pump belt so the antifreeze stays in the engine. Now you can run it for couple of minutes- watch you don't overheat the rubber exhaust hoses.
Last edited by zimm17; 06-10-2007 at 08:39 AM.
06-10-2007, 11:56 AM
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oem kits ( if thats what they are) are advertised at 15 to 1700... aftermarket is 850 to 950..... anybody know anything about the relative difference between any of this stuff ?
06-12-2007, 06:11 AM
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