PJDiesel

In a new to the forum and have this very annoying and time consuming problem.

Okay. Embarrassing as it may be, after about 7 man hours and $200.00 worth of NEW starter I am STILL having the same starter issues......

1988 7.4L (non-mag) in a Chaparral Villan IV.
Symptoms are:

When it turn the key I get "Rurrrrrr, rurrrr". Kinda like a very dead battery.

What I have done so far:

1) As stated, REPLACED the starter (what a treat) only to find out that I have some other unknown issue.
2) Swapped batteries, (again, NEW) used jumper cables to other new batteries, bypassed the upper set of solenoids temporarily by just holding the wires together.


The battery cables get unbelievably HOT during this super slow turning over process. If I jog the jog about 12 times it will get enough gumption to finally turn and fire.


WTF??

I guess next I am looking at a bad ground and/or positive cable?

When I get a minute I am going to put a meter on the starter lug to check the voltage during the crank attempt, that should help me tell if I am dealing with a wire issue, correct?

PLEASE HELP, this is really putting a crimp in my end of season boating, the wife is totally fed up with my non-mechanic antics.

Brandon

Make sure you have a good connection on cables. Sounds kinda like a bad ground connection. Cables are cheap so I would go ahead and replace them and take a wire brush to where you have the ground running to.

PJDiesel

Thanks for the reply Brandon. I just noticed as I was cleaning the boat up this evening that the port side ground at the battery terminal end is all gummy and missing insulation now. I guess that is from what I was saying about them getting so darn hot?

I guess if that was going to be the problem I would wonder "why now"? Electrical/mechanical failure I can understand, but a cable just corroding or all the sudden causing me this much grief?

I'll pick up the cables first thing tomorrow and report back.

Anyone else have some other thoughts?

MOBILEMERCMAN

Sign of heat may help pinpoint problem, Just because its tight doesn't mean its a good connection corrosion is not a good conductor. A meter at starter may help to direct you. Have you cranked with spark plugs out? Water from leaking exhaust will cause similar problems. Good luck
Jim

cuda

Are the whole cables hot, not just the connections? If so, I doubt that a bad connection is your problem. It's flowing enough current to heat those cable, it's flowing plenty of current. I hate to say it, but it sounds like the engine is just turning over too hard. Pull the spark plugs, and try to turn the engine over with a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley.

PJDiesel

Interestingly, I just had the risers off last week to remove some mufflers.......(just before this problem reared it's head)

Where would it be "leaking" from? Would new riser (the upper ones) gaskets be a starting point? There are NO signs of water leakage externally. The motor runs nice once it gets started, the idle has been giving me an hard time too though lately, been idling at about 400 in gear,...I've had to run it up a bit on the port side for docking and maneuvering around, would a low(er) idle for no reason be a symptom of a water leak? Just replaced the pump on that side this week too.

The spark plugs are a nightmare to get to, as with most any servicing of this boat.

So, I would remove just one plug? The oil is clean and golden, no signs of water or overfilled crankcase there.......

PJDiesel

Crankshaft pulley doesn't have a nut or anything on it to use a bar on. Remember, I can make it run, it's just tough.

Yes, the entire cable is hot, both positive and like I said, I now noticed the ground cable issue.

Pull ALL the plugs?

Then what, what will I see or not see at that point?

You guys have me worried here.......

JMAASKE

If you pull the plugs and it cranks over normal that would indicate possible water leaking into the cylinders. Possible hydra locking.

PJDiesel

Then what, am I in serious trouble then?

The motor seems to be running fine, temps good, like I said, the oil appears okay on the stick.

PJDiesel

Okay. This is like going to the doctor with some exotic rash, but.....

I have to admit my cheapness/stupidness in the hopes that THIS is my problem and I haven't caused irreversible damage at this point.
Her goes:
About two weeks ago I unbolted and lifted the risers up to make room for removing an inline muffler. I decided that it would be okay to just seat them back down with the same gaskets.

There, as dumb as I feel, I said it.

So..........

Am I screwed? I saved a whole $25 in gaskets.

Can I just clear the motor (if I do in fact have water in the cylinder) and install the new riser gaskets?

Can anyone say that this really IS a way to have a leak and hydro lock your motor?
Any thoughts on what I said about the idle problem on that side? Sound related to hydro-lock?