starter solenoid clicking when starting
08-05-2010, 09:44 AM
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hernando, Fl
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
starter solenoid clicking when starting
Techinically this is boat related, so i hope it doesnt disappear!!
I have a pro drive (surface drive boat) with a 32hp vanguard on it and it clicks when I try to start it. My first though was (obviously) replace the solenoid. So I replaced the starter (built on solenoid) and it seemed to be a little better, but still did it. Next I replaced the cables and battery thinking that those were the only other things it could be. Now it only clicks about every 5th time, but will do it 3-4 times before cranking. What the heck else could it be? FWIW the starter was replaced about 6 months ago and the cables within the past couple days.
I have a pro drive (surface drive boat) with a 32hp vanguard on it and it clicks when I try to start it. My first though was (obviously) replace the solenoid. So I replaced the starter (built on solenoid) and it seemed to be a little better, but still did it. Next I replaced the cables and battery thinking that those were the only other things it could be. Now it only clicks about every 5th time, but will do it 3-4 times before cranking. What the heck else could it be? FWIW the starter was replaced about 6 months ago and the cables within the past couple days.
08-05-2010, 10:23 PM
#4
Charter Member
Charter Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Central, Ohio USA
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is there a starter solenoid relay like Mercury uses? They will act the same as a bad solenoid.
08-06-2010, 05:57 PM
#6
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Smaller Vanguards use an external solenoid. The starter is simply a motor with a centrifugal bendix to cram the spinning gear into the flywheel ring gear. I assume the larger Vanguard is the same setup.
The solenoid is usually the source of the clicking. If you chase your positive battery cable from the batt, you will usually run straight to the solenoid. It has two fat posts, and a trigger wire to the starter switch (some are also grounded by a separate wire, and some are grounded through the mounting bracket).
See if you can find it. Replacements are pretty cheap and you can use any old solenoid from the auto parts store. After you install it and verify that it is working well, coat all metal parts and connections with liquid rubber for corrosion resistance.
MC
The solenoid is usually the source of the clicking. If you chase your positive battery cable from the batt, you will usually run straight to the solenoid. It has two fat posts, and a trigger wire to the starter switch (some are also grounded by a separate wire, and some are grounded through the mounting bracket).
See if you can find it. Replacements are pretty cheap and you can use any old solenoid from the auto parts store. After you install it and verify that it is working well, coat all metal parts and connections with liquid rubber for corrosion resistance.
MC
08-06-2010, 10:21 PM
#7
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hernando, Fl
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Smaller Vanguards use an external solenoid. The starter is simply a motor with a centrifugal bendix to cram the spinning gear into the flywheel ring gear. I assume the larger Vanguard is the same setup.
The solenoid is usually the source of the clicking. If you chase your positive battery cable from the batt, you will usually run straight to the solenoid. It has two fat posts, and a trigger wire to the starter switch (some are also grounded by a separate wire, and some are grounded through the mounting bracket).
See if you can find it. Replacements are pretty cheap and you can use any old solenoid from the auto parts store. After you install it and verify that it is working well, coat all metal parts and connections with liquid rubber for corrosion resistance.
MC
The solenoid is usually the source of the clicking. If you chase your positive battery cable from the batt, you will usually run straight to the solenoid. It has two fat posts, and a trigger wire to the starter switch (some are also grounded by a separate wire, and some are grounded through the mounting bracket).
See if you can find it. Replacements are pretty cheap and you can use any old solenoid from the auto parts store. After you install it and verify that it is working well, coat all metal parts and connections with liquid rubber for corrosion resistance.
MC
As stated, the starter was replaced a few months ago and this did not cure the problem, though I have certainly not ruled out the possibility of a defective starter!
08-08-2010, 09:02 PM
#8
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
GM style starter, understood.
Relatively new starter (and solenoid), understood.
Assuming you have a healthy, fully charged (13.4vdc) automotive size battery (550 CCA or larger), then the drain of a healthy starter of a 50cid motor shouldn't pull the voltage down under 11.5 volts while cranking.
Hook a decent (not a $4 one) voltmeter up to the positive wire on going from the battery to the solenoid, and to a good ground. Before cranking you should see 13.0-13.4 volts. During cranking you should see 11.5 to 12.0 volts. Check this.
If it is like a GM starter, there is a copper conductor going from the solenoid lug INTO the starter windings. Also check the voltage between this conductor and a good ground. Should be 0 when not cranking, and should be 11.5 to 12.0 volts when cranking.
If you have good voltage to the solenoid, but bad voltage leaving the solenoid going into the starter, then the solenoid may not be traveling all the way when you hit the starter button, The solenoid mechanically moves the starter gear into the flywheel ring gear, and at the same time it slams a contact plate across the terminals to pass current into the starter. If the gear is not moving freely on the starter shaft, OR IF THE STARTER NEEDS SHIMMED to properly clear the flywheel ring gear, it can keep the solenoid from traveling far enough to make good contact. Also, make sure that yu are getting good trigger voltage to the solenoid when you hit the start button. Measure the voltage from the start terminal to ground when hitting the start button.
mc
Relatively new starter (and solenoid), understood.
Assuming you have a healthy, fully charged (13.4vdc) automotive size battery (550 CCA or larger), then the drain of a healthy starter of a 50cid motor shouldn't pull the voltage down under 11.5 volts while cranking.
Hook a decent (not a $4 one) voltmeter up to the positive wire on going from the battery to the solenoid, and to a good ground. Before cranking you should see 13.0-13.4 volts. During cranking you should see 11.5 to 12.0 volts. Check this.
If it is like a GM starter, there is a copper conductor going from the solenoid lug INTO the starter windings. Also check the voltage between this conductor and a good ground. Should be 0 when not cranking, and should be 11.5 to 12.0 volts when cranking.
If you have good voltage to the solenoid, but bad voltage leaving the solenoid going into the starter, then the solenoid may not be traveling all the way when you hit the starter button, The solenoid mechanically moves the starter gear into the flywheel ring gear, and at the same time it slams a contact plate across the terminals to pass current into the starter. If the gear is not moving freely on the starter shaft, OR IF THE STARTER NEEDS SHIMMED to properly clear the flywheel ring gear, it can keep the solenoid from traveling far enough to make good contact. Also, make sure that yu are getting good trigger voltage to the solenoid when you hit the start button. Measure the voltage from the start terminal to ground when hitting the start button.
mc
08-08-2010, 10:49 PM
#9
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hernando, Fl
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
GM style starter, understood.
Relatively new starter (and solenoid), understood.
Assuming you have a healthy, fully charged (13.4vdc) automotive size battery (550 CCA or larger), then the drain of a healthy starter of a 50cid motor shouldn't pull the voltage down under 11.5 volts while cranking.
Hook a decent (not a $4 one) voltmeter up to the positive wire on going from the battery to the solenoid, and to a good ground. Before cranking you should see 13.0-13.4 volts. During cranking you should see 11.5 to 12.0 volts. Check this.
If it is like a GM starter, there is a copper conductor going from the solenoid lug INTO the starter windings. Also check the voltage between this conductor and a good ground. Should be 0 when not cranking, and should be 11.5 to 12.0 volts when cranking.
If you have good voltage to the solenoid, but bad voltage leaving the solenoid going into the starter, then the solenoid may not be traveling all the way when you hit the starter button, The solenoid mechanically moves the starter gear into the flywheel ring gear, and at the same time it slams a contact plate across the terminals to pass current into the starter. If the gear is not moving freely on the starter shaft, OR IF THE STARTER NEEDS SHIMMED to properly clear the flywheel ring gear, it can keep the solenoid from traveling far enough to make good contact. Also, make sure that yu are getting good trigger voltage to the solenoid when you hit the start button. Measure the voltage from the start terminal to ground when hitting the start button.
mc
Relatively new starter (and solenoid), understood.
Assuming you have a healthy, fully charged (13.4vdc) automotive size battery (550 CCA or larger), then the drain of a healthy starter of a 50cid motor shouldn't pull the voltage down under 11.5 volts while cranking.
Hook a decent (not a $4 one) voltmeter up to the positive wire on going from the battery to the solenoid, and to a good ground. Before cranking you should see 13.0-13.4 volts. During cranking you should see 11.5 to 12.0 volts. Check this.
If it is like a GM starter, there is a copper conductor going from the solenoid lug INTO the starter windings. Also check the voltage between this conductor and a good ground. Should be 0 when not cranking, and should be 11.5 to 12.0 volts when cranking.
If you have good voltage to the solenoid, but bad voltage leaving the solenoid going into the starter, then the solenoid may not be traveling all the way when you hit the starter button, The solenoid mechanically moves the starter gear into the flywheel ring gear, and at the same time it slams a contact plate across the terminals to pass current into the starter. If the gear is not moving freely on the starter shaft, OR IF THE STARTER NEEDS SHIMMED to properly clear the flywheel ring gear, it can keep the solenoid from traveling far enough to make good contact. Also, make sure that yu are getting good trigger voltage to the solenoid when you hit the start button. Measure the voltage from the start terminal to ground when hitting the start button.
mc
Thanks for the great info! I was unaware that the copper wire going into the starter itself was the one to test, learn something new everyday!!
I considered the idea that the starter may need shimming, but couldnt accept that a starter/engine this new would need shimming. Do you think that is a possibility?
I will be testing voltages/drops ASAP and will get back.
Thanks again!!
08-09-2010, 06:33 PM
#10
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Royal Oak, MI
Posts: 1,820
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
