DirtyJohnson

Hi all, been lurking here awhile and have found the answer to just about every question I have had so never had a need to post until now.

My problem is with a teague 800 not starting so easy. I just bought the boat a few months ago and used it twice so far. First time engine would start fine with minimal throttle pumping and not really cracked open. Once warm seem to start no problem without having to crack the throttle. Got spoiled I guess. After getting home and sitting awhile I needed to take it to the lake and would not start at all or idle. It would start WO but I hate doing that since I can’t back the throttle off fast enough before it hits the limiter. Brought it home and I checked timing and it was at 8 intial and 26 total. It would also backfire through carbs and valve covers when hitting the throttle. Since then I have replaced plugs (were fouled), wires, cap, rotor, cleaned carbs (were leaking at pumps and other places), set timing to 34 total 18 initial, tightened intake manifold bolts that were loose, compression 120-130, vacuum at idle is 12inhg, sprayed everywhere with carb cleaner looking for vacuum leak (no luck). After all of this it seems to be a lot better but not perfect. Did another trip and would start ok and idled around 700-900 in gear but still won’t start when warm. I have to still crack the throttle and give it a little gas to start. It would as die when idling sometimes. Now as of today I couldn’t even get it to start WO. I finally got it with starting fluid and half throttle. Still occasionally backfires when hitting throttle, and dies if I hit the throttle and close it too quick. The only adjustments I have made is timing and turning the carb primary screws out ½ turn due to timing adjustment.

I am still thinking a vacuum leak at the intake manifold but didn’t want to remove everything yet. Hope this wasn’t too long, just trying to get out as much up front as I can.

Engine is Teague 800
420 meagablower with superchiller
4150 carbs mechanical sec with boost ref

What do you guys think? Are these just that cold blooded and temperamental?

Griff

You could have easily blown the powervalves if it was backfiring out the carb like you say. that would make it very rich at idle and hard to start without opening the carb flaps to let in some air.

I would call Teague to find out where they set the timing on those engines.

DirtyJohnson

Thanks Griff.

I did talk to Teague, some of the hard starts seem normal talking to them. I just can't believe once running and warmed up I can't just turn the key and go. I did replace powervalves more than once. Can you blow a powervalve when boost referenced? I did set timing according to them. The backfires I was thinking was a lean condition contributed to a vacuum leak just not sure how to go about it or what else to check.

fbc25el

At idle you should not see any fuel comming out of the boosters. If it is a four corner carb both front and rear throtle plates have to be set the same. Idel mixture set the same also. Float level right at the bottem of the sight hole.

blue thunder

When you go to restart it warm you should not touch the throttle at all initially. Is that how you are doing it?

DirtyJohnson

I have checked and don't see any fuel coming out. It is four corner and the pri I think are 1 turn in and the sec 1/2 turn in. I have seen so many post go both ways on this. I think I do need to check floats again.

Yes, I try it that way and it usually trys to idle real low and stumble. I have to tap the throttle a little to get it back up.

This past weekend while at the docks would idle around 1000 rpm after starting then after a min or so would go to the 800-1000 rpm surge. In gear is about 850. But on some shifts would drop to 500-600 rpm and then would stall if I didn't tap the throttles. It's never consistant. Looking to try something before next trip.

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

If its backfiring through the carbs then check the fuel pressure and float lever in the carbs..low fuel pressure on a blower motor is a big no no and can do some damage so i would start their..also remember your trying to put fuel through 2 blower rotors and a chiller so your going to have to pump the throttle a few times on the initial start up and yes with the chiller its going to be cold hearted..

erratic idle or blower surge, that's the nature of the beast, try yo keep all 8 of the idle air screws equal, i had mine set @ 3/4 turn out when i had the 420's with minimal blower surge..i would back the timing down to 32* also and make sure you used the correct spark plugs..

DirtyJohnson

The fuel pressure varies between 4-7 psi so I think that is good. Floats I need to re-check. The pumping of the throttle makes sense and was never described that way to me before. I know the erratic idle is normal and a case of too rich usually. My idle screws are all at 1/2 turn. I am going to redo my timing when I put my new bushing in that is only a 14 deg adv.

Wouldn't an idle of 1000 at first then calm down to its normal surge be an idicator of a vacuum leak? Just trying to figure out all the different idle rpms I am dealing with.

Griff

No, it shows that its a little leaner on a cold start and then richens up as it warms up.
You really shouldn't have more than about 100rpms or so of surge.
Also, make sure to check the float levels with the boat at the same angle/slope it sits while at rest in the water.

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

because of the bloser surge you want to check fuel pressure @ a slightly higher rpm,rev it to 1200 rpm's and check it..you want a minimum of 7 psi. the surge is normal.. read this article about adjusting your carb's http://www.candsspecialties.com/tuning1.html