Sleeper525SC

I recently bought a boat with a 525 SC and was doing routine maintenance. Along the way I was changing the blower oil and noticed gas has mixed in. To the best of my knowledge the motor has somwhere around 100hrs. Can anyone tell me if it's just a matter of cleaning out the reservoirs and putting in new gear lube, or should I just pull it and have it rebuilt?

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

Pull it and have it gone through,oil change was over due and may have some leaking seals..cheeper to do it now and have it checked.. the bearings may have some scoars in them and if they were to go out well you may be pulling your engine to..

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

I did the rear halves of my 177's. I was getting lots of fuel in the rear cases. They were standard 6204 bearings. I remember finding some thru motion industries or somewhere that were better bearings rated to like 18k rpm. Seals were basic stuff. Pretty easy to do the rears. Blower shop in california will have all the parts you need. As for the front snouts and shaft seals, never did them, so cant say. If your boost is where it should be you should be ok with just a basic bearings and seal rebuild.

Places you can send them

The blower shop

Superchargersusa.com

Darren Meyer in michigan

Couple others but i forget

Griff

Was the lube overfull in the front and/or rear cases???? and was it real thin like a standard engine oil????

If it just had fuel odor and wasn't overfull or thinned out, then I would probably change the lube, run it for 10 hrs or so and see what it looks like.

The lube should be chnaged at least every 50 hrs with the standard pulley. Also change your fuel pump lube in the sea pump. It gets fuel dilluted as well.

Airpacker

The early 525's used a hard plastic single lip seal on the rotor shafts. When the seal weras, boost pressure actually forces raw fuel past the seal and into the cases.

The blower shop rebuild kits have much softer double lip seals.

I have seen several 177's go BOOM due to contaminated oil.

Caution: If you disassemble the front half for a reseal, the rotors need to be retimed and this is a critical adjustment done with shims behind the drive and driven gears. Best left to someone with experience in doing it. The rears are a piece o cake.

Sleeper525SC

The oil cases were not overfull but the oil was very thin, and definetely had a strong gas odor.

rangerrick63

I'm in the process of resealing my 177. When I tore it down, I noticed one of the rear seals was distorted, & the rubber was flipped to the point that there was no way it was sealing.
There are no numbers on the seals, & from it seems like, Weiand had these seals made for this application.
I chose not to go back with the same seal, so I simply broke out the good ole seal catalog, & looked the seals up by size & application...
SKF 9798 for the rotor seals
SKF 10075 for the snout seal

SKF 9204 for the rotor bearings
SKF 9304 for the snout bearing

I ordered the seals thru my local NAPA, around $25, & the bearings I found on EBAY for about $20 (actually made an offer of $4 each & he accepted it)
http://www.holley.com/WeiandCatalog/...pageNumber=118
You can get the gasket kit from this link. I found this kit available thru several places online. I'm ordering it thru The Blower Shop.

I contacted The Blower Shop, to get some input on the tear down...
A couple of things they told me:
The drive shaft does need to be pressed out, & it presses to the inside of the snout, the bearing will also need to be pressed off the shaft (keep in mind, there is red loctite on the seal, it takes an extra pump or two on the press, just watch the housing as your applying pressure, you don't want to break that).
I asked them about the timing of the rotors, he said as long as I place the same shims that came out on each rotor, & align the marks up, I would be fine...Oh, & make sure to keep the rotors on the same side of the case...I marked mine with a Sharpie so I wouldn't get them mixed up.

Weiand loves to use red loctite, actually stripped out a few of the tiny bearing retainer plate screws, so I've got to run down to my local nut & screw store & get some new ones.
So far, everything has gone well, & it hasn't been too awful daunting.
Hope this helps you out some...
Good luck with the rebuild.

rangerrick63

Just realized I gave you wrong info...
The drive shaft needs to be pressed outward...or simply, away from the blower casing. Then you can press the bearing off the shaft.

Sorry bout that.

Old Navy

Check for a snap ring before pressing it out. I did mine a few years ago but believe there is one on the snout.