Another Oil in Water Saga
#1
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Another Oil in Water Saga
So today I took my Scarab 22 to the dock for the first go out. It is a 96 with the 7.4, non magnum. After getting it started, I noticed some vibration that is not normally there. I had the hatch open and looked back to see water/oily nasty stuff puking out of both PCV tubes onto the open air filter. Prior to noticing that, it had backfired a couple of times as I was starting it. I scanned the head/block mating area and it looked like I could see streaking out of both sides with some water running down. I assume blown head gaskets, it did get hot last time out due to a bad water impeller, but I ran it after that with no issue. I also checked the oil yesterday and didn't notice anything; it was a quart low so I added some. When I checked it today, there was water oil nasty on the dipstick as well. Any ideas? I have never seen an engine puke out of the PCVs like this? Does that mean valvetrain damage?
While I am pondering replacement costs, has anyone seen any LS motor swaps in older boats like this? What would be needed? It seems they make good power and would weigh considerable less.
Thanks
While I am pondering replacement costs, has anyone seen any LS motor swaps in older boats like this? What would be needed? It seems they make good power and would weigh considerable less.
Thanks
#2
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I had the same thing happen with my last boat. The block looked fine from the outside, but when I took the intake off there was a 2 in crack at the top of the lifter bores.
#3
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So today I took my Scarab 22 to the dock for the first go out. It is a 96 with the 7.4, non magnum. After getting it started, I noticed some vibration that is not normally there. I had the hatch open and looked back to see water/oily nasty stuff puking out of both PCV tubes onto the open air filter. Prior to noticing that, it had backfired a couple of times as I was starting it. I scanned the head/block mating area and it looked like I could see streaking out of both sides with some water running down. I assume blown head gaskets, it did get hot last time out due to a bad water impeller, but I ran it after that with no issue. I also checked the oil yesterday and didn't notice anything; it was a quart low so I added some. When I checked it today, there was water oil nasty on the dipstick as well. Any ideas? I have never seen an engine puke out of the PCVs like this? Does that mean valvetrain damage?
While I am pondering replacement costs, has anyone seen any LS motor swaps in older boats like this? What would be needed? It seems they make good power and would weigh considerable less.
Thanks
While I am pondering replacement costs, has anyone seen any LS motor swaps in older boats like this? What would be needed? It seems they make good power and would weigh considerable less.
Thanks
As for the LS idea, I don't know what exactly would be involved, but it would be cool!
Is that your shop in your avatar pic? Looks great!
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Im right on the same page as you (minus the engine failure). All the LS blocks are aluminum and i dont think it would end up too well if your a salt water boater. Look for an engine out of a 2000 up GM truck. The difference is minor but you get an iron block and its half the price The 00-02 2500s have a 8.1 496 that is a torque monster.
Heres the best part about GM vortec line. 99% of the parts on a LS based block can be used on a vortec motor. If your creative you could build an iron LS2 with the 6.0 block and the LS internals.
Heres the best part about GM vortec line. 99% of the parts on a LS based block can be used on a vortec motor. If your creative you could build an iron LS2 with the 6.0 block and the LS internals.
#6
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I'm voting for an improper winterization. Have a trained mechanic take a look at it. No way of telling what or how much is wrong over the internet.
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I appreciate the info, I have looked at some other LS posts and I am quickly dismissing that idea. For the cost, it looks like I can get a good rebuild easier than swapping to another engine family.
The boat is freshwater and in central Texas. I haven't had winterization issues before, but all I usually do is pull the exhaust manifold plugs.
The boat is freshwater and in central Texas. I haven't had winterization issues before, but all I usually do is pull the exhaust manifold plugs.
#8
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I've heard of stretching headbolts when you get a big block hot that will make the gaskets leak,But it sounds like lilb hit it with a crack in the valley area . I had the same symptoms with my eliminator(coughing & choking) on first startup then puking out of the pcv, found the block cracked from the deck to the lifters in six places. Ouch
#9
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I appreciate the info, I have looked at some other LS posts and I am quickly dismissing that idea. For the cost, it looks like I can get a good rebuild easier than swapping to another engine family.
The boat is freshwater and in central Texas. I haven't had winterization issues before, but all I usually do is pull the exhaust manifold plugs.
The boat is freshwater and in central Texas. I haven't had winterization issues before, but all I usually do is pull the exhaust manifold plugs.
If it got below freezing for more than a day, then it most likely cracked the block.
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So I pulled the manifold and winterization seems to be the culprit. I have never pulled the block plugs before, but this year must have been the one.
When I pulled the intake, there was goo up to the pan on the bottom of the intake, I figure at least 1.5-2 inches deep. It became very obvious very quick what was wrong, as there were three cracks from the head tot eh valley on one side and another on the other. Count them four, at least I went out big.
Looks like it is time for another project, I will probably take this summer off the lake to bankroll a winter rebuild. Mine is a non-magnum motor, so maybe I will step up to a forged crank and pistons and do some work to the peanut-ports. I want to keep it a cruiser, maybe pick up a little hole-shot power with a better cam. and aftermarket manifolds.
The real kicker is that my new Edelbrock carb and Torker 2 (both e-bay finds) will have to wait till next season. I hadn't even puth them on yet.
Thanks for all the advice, I have lots more browsing to do to find out good cams and other engine combination stuff.
When I pulled the intake, there was goo up to the pan on the bottom of the intake, I figure at least 1.5-2 inches deep. It became very obvious very quick what was wrong, as there were three cracks from the head tot eh valley on one side and another on the other. Count them four, at least I went out big.
Looks like it is time for another project, I will probably take this summer off the lake to bankroll a winter rebuild. Mine is a non-magnum motor, so maybe I will step up to a forged crank and pistons and do some work to the peanut-ports. I want to keep it a cruiser, maybe pick up a little hole-shot power with a better cam. and aftermarket manifolds.
The real kicker is that my new Edelbrock carb and Torker 2 (both e-bay finds) will have to wait till next season. I hadn't even puth them on yet.
Thanks for all the advice, I have lots more browsing to do to find out good cams and other engine combination stuff.