Get roller cam or Alum heads?
#1
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Get roller cam or Alum heads?
Currently have 496 Stroker built. Forged pistons, h-beam rods, Have 800 Holley on Air Gap intake, Accel ignition. Now had a pay-cut at work but still wanna finish my project. I have about $1900 to spend on cam and heads. So what now boat-friends? I planned on using credi & going with RMBuilder setup, but don't think I can afford it now.
I also have stainless steel tubular dry exaust headers.
Should I buy a roller cam kit, and have stock heads fitted with these springs etc, or get flat tappet with aluminum heads? I have a 91 Mirage Intruder 217 (same as Baja Force 220). Looking to get most H.P./Torque for River/Poker running.
Appreciate the feedback
I also have stainless steel tubular dry exaust headers.
Should I buy a roller cam kit, and have stock heads fitted with these springs etc, or get flat tappet with aluminum heads? I have a 91 Mirage Intruder 217 (same as Baja Force 220). Looking to get most H.P./Torque for River/Poker running.
Appreciate the feedback
#2
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If you had the money I would say go with the package I went with which is Mandara Cam, AFR 265 Oval Port Heads, Morel Lifters, and scorpion endurance rockers. All of that would be good for at least 600 hp, depending on your C.R.. Problem is all of that is going to run you around $3300.00. If there is any way you can do it, go that route. Otherwise, I don't think there is a good, one item, only. The heads need the cam and the cam will need the head. If Bob builds the cam, what he designs for the AFR heads would be different than what he would design for stock heads. There was a set of Merlin Heads ported from Jim V on here. I think they were $800.00. The flow numbers are really good and that would be an option too if you don't mind iron heads.
I built an engine last year and tried to do it on the cheap, but in the long run it was a lot cheaper to build it right and how I wanted it the first time.
Here is the link for Rookies heads if he still has them.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...raceheads.html
I built an engine last year and tried to do it on the cheap, but in the long run it was a lot cheaper to build it right and how I wanted it the first time.
Here is the link for Rookies heads if he still has them.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...raceheads.html
Last edited by endeavour32; 04-24-2011 at 04:15 AM.
#3
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I would let Bob guide you to correct choice. I'm no expert on cost of engine parts, but I don't think Bob's parts are any more expensive especially for the expertise. He has me slowing down my engine build to get measurements just perfect. I think it is better to have his expertise of parts compatiablity than an hodge podge of expensive parts that might not work together. He won't sell you something you don't need.
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i think you would gain more h/p wityh a head swap vs cam.if $ was a factor go with the heads and a hyd-cam.you got dry exhaust so you can go alittle more agresive with your choise.my 2cents.
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Hydraulic roller camshaft systems are superior to flat tappet hydraulic camshafts for many reasons, but they will not generate enough additional power to offset the budget spending position you are in. The investment in a good set of good flowing aluminum heads can net you a point for so of additional compression range and as BCFountain said, the dry exhaust will allow you to run a larger camshaft duration and net the bigger power gains of the cam working with the better flowing heads and compression to give you the most power for your buck. Just make sure you use the correct runner volume quality head and best camshaft profile someone like Bob at RM Builders will recommend.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar