oil temp, steaming oil...:-(
06-28-2011, 10:47 AM
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oil temp, steaming oil...:-(
so i know when i first bought my boat everyone on offshoreonly.com told me i needed a bigger oil cooler..... not so sure if I need bigger, newer, or cleaner.....
well i figured first and foremost i should get a gauge and figure out if it ever even gets hot... well i havent gotten there yet as im just now in the process of breaking the motor in still... While out this weekend, i noticed my breather filter was saturated in oil and basically steaming by the looks of things, and my believe it looked as though i was burning some out the exhaust..... My deal is that i never was going that fast and im at about 4 hours on the motor now and it has never done this until now.... could it be that my oil filter is clogged or my cooler is dirty and clogged up?
My theory is both of the above..... I plan on buying an oil temp gauge this week and also changing the oil, but im worried about the cooler as i noticed in the marina that the powersteering foamed up from heat as my girl friend sat at the wheel at idle with the wheel at full lock.... WASNT TOO HAPPY ABOUT THAT, but she didnt know any better and i was busy tinkering with the idle and timing.... which i still think need more work
let me know any thoughts or ideas on the heat topic though, btw oil pressure is like 80-100psi but i am running delo 400 for the break in and temp is a solid 175*F
well i figured first and foremost i should get a gauge and figure out if it ever even gets hot... well i havent gotten there yet as im just now in the process of breaking the motor in still... While out this weekend, i noticed my breather filter was saturated in oil and basically steaming by the looks of things, and my believe it looked as though i was burning some out the exhaust..... My deal is that i never was going that fast and im at about 4 hours on the motor now and it has never done this until now.... could it be that my oil filter is clogged or my cooler is dirty and clogged up?
My theory is both of the above..... I plan on buying an oil temp gauge this week and also changing the oil, but im worried about the cooler as i noticed in the marina that the powersteering foamed up from heat as my girl friend sat at the wheel at idle with the wheel at full lock.... WASNT TOO HAPPY ABOUT THAT, but she didnt know any better and i was busy tinkering with the idle and timing.... which i still think need more work
let me know any thoughts or ideas on the heat topic though, btw oil pressure is like 80-100psi but i am running delo 400 for the break in and temp is a solid 175*F
06-28-2011, 11:48 AM
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Remember oil should be 215-225 in a perfect world. This is to actually steam any water condensation out of it. If the oil is getting up to proper temp, you will see a bit of steam/ mist out of the breather. Like you said, an oil temp gauge will tell all.
Darrell.
Darrell.
06-29-2011, 08:57 AM
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Steaming Oil
It almost sounds like your building to much pressure the crank case. IE mist comming out of breather cap. Check your plumbing for your PVC if your running it and and all your crank case hoses to see if you have any blockage. Did you put a windage tray in the engine possible foaming of the oil? I realize you are breaking in the engine and it hasnt seen any high RPMs but just a thought on the windage tray.
Rings not seated in yet and you may be getting to much blow by pass the rings into the crank case? Sure sounds like you got to much pressure in the crank case?
While your idiling the engine pop the oil breather and see if there is a lot of gases escaping if there is you got some crank case ventilation problems.
Good luck Roger
Rings not seated in yet and you may be getting to much blow by pass the rings into the crank case? Sure sounds like you got to much pressure in the crank case?
While your idiling the engine pop the oil breather and see if there is a lot of gases escaping if there is you got some crank case ventilation problems.
Good luck Roger
06-29-2011, 02:56 PM
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any ideas of what i should do?
currently i have a breather on one side and a pcv on the other that is attached to the filter lower....
and how is 175 for water temp not hot enough?
yes it has the pan in the valley and the shield in the pan as well..... factory cooler or whatever came with the boat when i bought it and a i run a hp4 filter,
im getting the blow by out the exhaust is what im afraid of... or i think it is oil.... i suppose it could be water as it doesnt have a strong oil scent but i think it is oil and the breather steams oil i think as that is what it looks like on the little filter....
the factory 502mag didnt even have pcv's it ran a hose from each cylinder to the intake filter and thats it.... should i switch back to that? and if i do, and it sucks through both where does it suck in air at??????
currently i have a breather on one side and a pcv on the other that is attached to the filter lower....
and how is 175 for water temp not hot enough?
yes it has the pan in the valley and the shield in the pan as well..... factory cooler or whatever came with the boat when i bought it and a i run a hp4 filter,
im getting the blow by out the exhaust is what im afraid of... or i think it is oil.... i suppose it could be water as it doesnt have a strong oil scent but i think it is oil and the breather steams oil i think as that is what it looks like on the little filter....
the factory 502mag didnt even have pcv's it ran a hose from each cylinder to the intake filter and thats it.... should i switch back to that? and if i do, and it sucks through both where does it suck in air at??????
06-29-2011, 03:21 PM
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what you need to do immediatly is a few critical things:
take the oil filter off , cut the can off an examine the elemnt for bits of bearing. there is no such thing as a clogged oil filter. if your oil filter ever sees enough debris to clog it then the rest of the motor is already laying in the oil pan.
2) drain the oil and look at it and smell it. you need to change it now anyway. if it smells like dead fish, you have other issues.
3) do a leak down. you should have ring seal by now. this isn't 1966 anymore. with modern materials and correct assembly the rings should be have been seated in the first hour of nominal use. barring bad assembly or prep, i don't buy the ring seal deal.
4, get rid of about 50 psi of oil pressure assuming you gage is correct and you need to find out whats really happening there...
oil pressure is not one of those things where more is always better and having a big number like that is an indicator of something done wrong.
if a new motor is going to fail for whatever reason, they do it pretty quick, just like you are describing. you need to NOT presume its something trivial. you need to presume it is something catastrophic and stop running it right this instant until you get a handle on the issue. even if it is something really bad, it might be an easy fix this minute but in 10 MORE minutes you could be looking at scrap.
5th rule of engineering... nothing happens for no reason
take the oil filter off , cut the can off an examine the elemnt for bits of bearing. there is no such thing as a clogged oil filter. if your oil filter ever sees enough debris to clog it then the rest of the motor is already laying in the oil pan.
2) drain the oil and look at it and smell it. you need to change it now anyway. if it smells like dead fish, you have other issues.
3) do a leak down. you should have ring seal by now. this isn't 1966 anymore. with modern materials and correct assembly the rings should be have been seated in the first hour of nominal use. barring bad assembly or prep, i don't buy the ring seal deal.
4, get rid of about 50 psi of oil pressure assuming you gage is correct and you need to find out whats really happening there...
oil pressure is not one of those things where more is always better and having a big number like that is an indicator of something done wrong.
if a new motor is going to fail for whatever reason, they do it pretty quick, just like you are describing. you need to NOT presume its something trivial. you need to presume it is something catastrophic and stop running it right this instant until you get a handle on the issue. even if it is something really bad, it might be an easy fix this minute but in 10 MORE minutes you could be looking at scrap.
5th rule of engineering... nothing happens for no reason
06-29-2011, 11:13 PM
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what you need to do immediatly is a few critical things:
take the oil filter off , cut the can off an examine the elemnt for bits of bearing. there is no such thing as a clogged oil filter. if your oil filter ever sees enough debris to clog it then the rest of the motor is already laying in the oil pan.
2) drain the oil and look at it and smell it. you need to change it now anyway. if it smells like dead fish, you have other issues.
3) do a leak down. you should have ring seal by now. this isn't 1966 anymore. with modern materials and correct assembly the rings should be have been seated in the first hour of nominal use. barring bad assembly or prep, i don't buy the ring seal deal.
4, get rid of about 50 psi of oil pressure assuming you gage is correct and you need to find out whats really happening there...
oil pressure is not one of those things where more is always better and having a big number like that is an indicator of something done wrong.
if a new motor is going to fail for whatever reason, they do it pretty quick, just like you are describing. you need to NOT presume its something trivial. you need to presume it is something catastrophic and stop running it right this instant until you get a handle on the issue. even if it is something really bad, it might be an easy fix this minute but in 10 MORE minutes you could be looking at scrap.
5th rule of engineering... nothing happens for no reason
take the oil filter off , cut the can off an examine the elemnt for bits of bearing. there is no such thing as a clogged oil filter. if your oil filter ever sees enough debris to clog it then the rest of the motor is already laying in the oil pan.
2) drain the oil and look at it and smell it. you need to change it now anyway. if it smells like dead fish, you have other issues.
3) do a leak down. you should have ring seal by now. this isn't 1966 anymore. with modern materials and correct assembly the rings should be have been seated in the first hour of nominal use. barring bad assembly or prep, i don't buy the ring seal deal.
4, get rid of about 50 psi of oil pressure assuming you gage is correct and you need to find out whats really happening there...
oil pressure is not one of those things where more is always better and having a big number like that is an indicator of something done wrong.
if a new motor is going to fail for whatever reason, they do it pretty quick, just like you are describing. you need to NOT presume its something trivial. you need to presume it is something catastrophic and stop running it right this instant until you get a handle on the issue. even if it is something really bad, it might be an easy fix this minute but in 10 MORE minutes you could be looking at scrap.
5th rule of engineering... nothing happens for no reason
how do you suggest i get lower oil pressure? i understand im running delo400 on a fresh motor and when i saw the 80-100 number on a used pump i put a mechanical pump on it to findout the same thing?!?!?!? why is it so high? a guy at my race shop told me his motors on the same oil will run at 80 when new and 60ish at idle when broken in all season and he has never had a single issue ever.... thanks again let me know if you have any ideas....
also what about the breather/pcv issue? any thoughts?
06-30-2011, 07:29 AM
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Get one of these: http://www.arizonatools.com/best-sel...etail/RAYMT4&/ they are fun for lots of other things too. I carry one on my boat and my oil temp stays in the 180s-190s. My Mercury Racing service manual says maximum oil temperature is 222*. I'd be concerned if it got up to 225. Anyway, buy that cheap tool and point it at your oil pan once in a while after a good run.
Engines break in faster than you think. Your rings should be sealed by now. You are at the point that you need to make some brief WOT runs and then back down some. Varying the throttle is the key to breaking it in.
Engines break in faster than you think. Your rings should be sealed by now. You are at the point that you need to make some brief WOT runs and then back down some. Varying the throttle is the key to breaking it in.
06-30-2011, 10:12 AM
#10
Get one of these: http://www.arizonatools.com/best-sel...etail/RAYMT4&/ they are fun for lots of other things too. I carry one on my boat and my oil temp stays in the 180s-190s. My Mercury Racing service manual says maximum oil temperature is 222*. I'd be concerned if it got up to 225. Anyway, buy that cheap tool and point it at your oil pan once in a while after a good run.
Engines break in faster than you think. Your rings should be sealed by now. You are at the point that you need to make some brief WOT runs and then back down some. Varying the throttle is the key to breaking it in.
Engines break in faster than you think. Your rings should be sealed by now. You are at the point that you need to make some brief WOT runs and then back down some. Varying the throttle is the key to breaking it in.
I don't think it would hurt anything to run as high as 230 - 240* on oil temp. Modern oils can run that temp and be fine. Would not like to see it above 250*, though.
