nickjamesgomez

I was wandering the best way to take apart a kaama drive that is locked up? I just got the boat and can't find info on how to take them apart. I don't want to brake anything taking apart. Any info will help thanks.

Kaama302

They split in the middle. Take the drive off the boat and remove all the bolts from the transom side. It usually requires some heat to crack the drive so that you don't CRACK the casting. All the bearing, seals and u joints are available from truck part suppliers. If you have more questions email me @ [email protected]

nickjamesgomez

I just tried to take the drive apart from the center section, took the three nuts off on the bottom and heated the drive to about 200 deg. then hit the bottom with a dead blow and it seems like the drive might have more bolts inside (maybe) or just stuck? Is it best to heat the prop side or the transom side, because I heated both at the same time. Thanks, Nick

BOATMAN302

you have to take the drive apart after you slide the boot back. Undue the cap bolts and remove the drive. Once you have the drive on the bench you will see the remainder of the bolts to split the drive. I have never used heat before, its just tight.

nickjamesgomez

The boot is way to tight. Is there a way you know how to loosen up the boot or any other ideas? Thanks for the help, Nick

nickjamesgomez

I soaked the boots in silicone spray for a few hours with many coats and the became playable again. It works good.

Anyone know how to take the u-joint assembly out of the transom side? I pulled the 4 nuts off the plate in the back and the u-joints will not pull off. Do I half to take something apart on the inside of the boat or is it just stuck? The bearing in the transom plate is locked up the u-joints wont turn.

If I have a problem with the bearing or the plate I might half to take the hole drive off the boat to have it repaired. What is the best way to separate the drive from the boat?

Please any info will help, thanks

bck

If I remember correctly there is a pin that runs through the shaft at one end of that coupler, also the coupler is indexed for balance so mark it or locate the factory marks for correct reinstall

nickjamesgomez

There was no pin, the splines were just rusty and stuck together. Thanks for the info on the marks, I fond that the last guy put the marks offset in the wrong place.

I took the drive off the boat with a few chisels, flat head screw drivers and a slide hammer. I found the boot has a little hole in the boot and the bearings on the couple shaft had a little rust on them and bad seals. Plus one of the set of needle bearings has a few broken ones.

ANYONE know the part numbers for the bearings and seals in the drive? When I find out I will post on here for the next guy. It would be nice to have more info on these drives.

bck

I used to have the part numbers for all the bearings etc. in the transom assembly but don't know if I can still locate them. All the parts were commonly available at a local bearing supply store, you shouldn't have much difficulty locating them. I also remember they were supposed to be reassembled with some type of anaerobic (sp?) sealers or something- Staybond adhesive. I believe it glued the races to the housing or something. Cost me about $500 I believe to replace every bearing and seal in both halves of 2 drives including some labor to machine a scored shaft.

bck

There are a few other people who know these drives better than I do who haven't posted here yet that might be of more help. Try starting a thread in the Formula section perhaps, as most of the boats still around with these drives are Formulas.