Here we go! blew up a blower motor
05-22-2014, 06:40 PM
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Here we go! blew up a blower motor
Stock 454 with small b&m blowers. Got in the boost for 30 second and when I let of she was knocking. Long story short I pulled her out since top end was fine. Dropped her off at my new engine builder guy. There thinking rod bearings by the gander at it. So probably need new rotating assembly. They use eagles rotating kits. I have 049 stock heads. I want to go naturally aspirated work the 049 heads bigger valves etc. Eagle rotating assembly all forged with else brick marine intake and reuse my holley 850 carbs. Bump up the compression and call marine kinetics for a cam. What do you all think?
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05-22-2014, 07:59 PM
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^^^^^^^^^^What he said. Don't blame the blowers for either a bad tune, or assembly issues. If you are using a 174 blower, than I don't blame you for getting rid of it. That's a great blower for a small block or a 454 RV engine.
If you have to buy a NEW rotating assembly, it would only make sense to go with a 4.25 stroke kit, as it really is no more money than a 4'' stroke kit.
If you have to buy a NEW rotating assembly, it would only make sense to go with a 4.25 stroke kit, as it really is no more money than a 4'' stroke kit.
05-22-2014, 10:54 PM
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Which rods are you comparing the compstar to? I agree with most of what you said. As far as their opinion on the balancer choice , I personally wouldn't care what their sales dept had to say on that. I'd choose my own brand of balancer irregardless. I agree with you on the fluidamper.
What I like about scat is two things. Their price , and most importantly I know of many guys who have ran them with a substantial amount of power with good results. Scat is no fly by night company with prehistoric machines. Considering they supply general motors and daimler Chrysler with crankshafts and many NHRA teams.
Either way it's all good stuff, many years ago the only option you had for a halfway affordable forged crank was going to the chevy dealer or browsing swap meets . Which the chevy forged are still a pretty stout crank! I'd go with either one before I purchased an eagle. I've got a supplier here who if you purchase an eagle crank and it's not within spec, they will take it back. They can get me any of the mentioned cranks but they can do the best pricing on eagle since they do a big volume with them. Some of their prices are very attractive esp on eagle rods
What I like about scat is two things. Their price , and most importantly I know of many guys who have ran them with a substantial amount of power with good results. Scat is no fly by night company with prehistoric machines. Considering they supply general motors and daimler Chrysler with crankshafts and many NHRA teams.
Either way it's all good stuff, many years ago the only option you had for a halfway affordable forged crank was going to the chevy dealer or browsing swap meets . Which the chevy forged are still a pretty stout crank! I'd go with either one before I purchased an eagle. I've got a supplier here who if you purchase an eagle crank and it's not within spec, they will take it back. They can get me any of the mentioned cranks but they can do the best pricing on eagle since they do a big volume with them. Some of their prices are very attractive esp on eagle rods
05-22-2014, 11:44 PM
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I was told to stay away from L19 bolts in anything but a all out race engine, and especially in a marine engine. Apparently while their are of a stronger material, if subjected to any acid, moisture, corrosion will occur. They are so finicky you're not even supposed to handle them without gloves on. For most applications, the ARP2000 bolt is much more user friendly, and plenty strong. I have ARP2000 bolts in my engines. Wonder if any of the pro's here use the L19's in marine engines?
Most GM and aftermarket "I" beam style rods, had a much rougher finish than an H beam rod, from a visual standpoint.
Most GM and aftermarket "I" beam style rods, had a much rougher finish than an H beam rod, from a visual standpoint.
