Full Force

iTrader: (5)

I bought a boat last year for the engines, thought all the internals were Eagle but after looking at them saw the rods and crank were PBM, I didn't really care as they are looking like decent quality H beams and cranks look good also, I tossed a rod Friday and will be redoing them, so I don't really need to go nuts and spend 1500 on crazy Manley Rods, and crazy money on a crank, I know there are all kinds of ranges, my question is who makes the PBM stuff? is it the typical "made by someone without the name markup" situation? I hate to have mismatched parts but don't want to buy PBM stuff again if its junk, I prefer answers from engine builders or facts here, not opinions...

I will spend the money if needed for better stuff, but I don't need million dollar engines in my 35 Cig, I am my own builder and things get double and triple checked...I trust my machinist and will be asking him his opinion too...

the rods look like nice quality so how bad can they be??

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...73231344,d.cGU

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

Not sure who's making the rods for PBM, but I have morel lifters that are stamped "PBM".

My guess is your rod broke, from something other than the quality of the rod. A 600HP 5500RPM marine engine, shouldnt have busted a rod. Heck, those rods are much better than the GM dimple rods that come in most merc engines, and those rods would hold up fine in your engines. do you have any good pics of the broken rod? I still think you had a fastener issue, like someone didnt properly torque the rod bolts using a stretch gauge, or the rod clearances werent setup properly, etc.

If you decide to keep those rods, I think its worth the couple more bucks to upgrade to the ARP2000 rod bolts, but youll want to get those before you have the shop rebuild the rods for when they rebuild/size them.

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

I agree, have not pulled engine yet, I would think these rods being nice looking h beam are probably fine for my application, the guy that built these engines for my buddy sucked and that's why unwanted to refresh this year anyway and do things my way and all that....

I will upgrade rod bolts for sure as in the other thread "young" said these rods show they came with the lesser of the ARP bolts, I don't mind spending the money on stuff that keeps them together.

To me the parts I have looks like the bolt stretched and allowed bearing to spin, these engines were never ran hard until I had them so I will make sure they can handle it better next time!!

By buddy that helps me and is super anal is Lake Effect here, he has 107 mph procharged Formula that we beat every weekend his lives (besides the day we added too much timing) lol but overall no issues and he spins them to 5900!

My engines peaked at 5200 I was just about to send props to BBlades to bring them down to 5300 to not have as much stress on them, but it let loose too early, there were blow by issues I wanted to address anyway so I am redoing both engines.

I trust my machinist (victory engines) to make sure all clearances are right, my buddy and I recheck EVERYTHING and log it also before assembly.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

Maybe shoot for not such stump pullers this time. Like cam them to make peak power at 6000 and let those TRS spin smaller pitch wheels. I think you'll find the drives to hold up longer that way .

What heads are on those things again?

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

I am gonna keep combo together that's there I have lots if TRS parts if I make them spin too high the tq will be gone and won't hit 70....

The heads are pro comp, I made those right last season some the engine builder tossed them on I had Gellner redo them completely and make sure theyvare 100% now they are good heads lots of issues out of the box, again not a part I would have used if I paid to have engines built when new I like edelbrock but these were already there... Gellner said these are as good as any other NOW after I redid them .

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

My buddy spent 25,000. + for these engines, if I was him there would have been lawsuits happening he had issues from day 1 all got taken care of and he sold boat the guy I got boat from ran it 5-6 hours probably with no issues I bought it for the engines knowing I can make then right over time and I was in it for noting so I'm still ahead of the game and all that... I am average joe with expensive hobbys and buy as I go with cash so for me to build my own engines new 540ci with all dart parts and such isn't feasible, this was a way for me to get good power cheap, other brands break too when not set up right. These will be fine when I am done and I will still have less then 10,000 into both with fresh rebuilds including head work I had done last summer they have approx 6-8 hours so heads should be fine for a while

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

I have some very good knowledge in my area with engines and what I know myself we will make sure it's all right, I would turn them into 700's real easy but then I will for sure need 10 disc Trans and the TRS won't hold up to 700's the way I run the boat leaving combo alone and maximizing what I got.

Same with the drive I popped, the drives I kept were from the scarab I was told they had new parts and hard shimmed, found that to be Untrue the guy that did the drives for Dave didn't even have pinion set right was .020 off! That won't last... I should have kept my drives I know they were right... Live and learn the scarab was never ran hard enough to break stuff

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

My buddy Brian just did some 540s this winter. HP peak (680)was at 6200, torque was 690 around 5000ish . You can still make big torque numbers just will be at a higher rpm. I hear ya on the trs stuff though , and the trans issue as for more power. I think that the transmissions tq rating goes up as the rpm goes up though. Like at 5000 the trans maybe can take say 600 ft lbs, but at 6000 it might be able to take 750ft lbs. That be a question for bam though

Full Force

iTrader: (5)

Yea if I change combo I'm looking at additional cost as far as cams, lifters, and carbs another 3-4000 I don't wanna spend now as I am going hip replacement and will be out for 3 months making no money ...