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Heritage trailer & brakes.......

Old 05-07-2015, 07:39 AM
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Default Heritage trailer & brakes.......

Grease bearings, check. Tire pressure, check. Lugnuts at 100 ft lbs, check. Lights, check..... Brake caliper bolts tight!?!?!???








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That was last Sat. Nothing like having a 5 lb weight flying around the inside of your trailer rim at 65 mph! Never seen a trailer jump that much in my life. I might have pooped my pants. Not quite sure WTF or how fook but it looks like 1 caliper bolt came loose, then the caliper caught the rotor, ripping the other bolt clear out/off. This happened maybe 15 miles down the road after getting the boat out of storage.

Not quite sure how Im going to fix it since the bracket is welded onto the axel. Might reweld up the rip/hole and just re-drill it. Welding upside down in tight area is so much fun . Trailer is a 2007, that was first titled/ tagged in 2012 when i bought it.

Im hoping the caliper will fit in the other mounting holes in the front of the axel on that bracket. It would just be in the front vs top of the rotor.

Share your thoughts/ ideas. Now the weather is not playing nice so i cant pull the rim/tire off to start test fitting

Last edited by 92nsx; 05-07-2015 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:05 AM
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Dude, that sucks! I remember when I was converting brake systems, they recommended a certain placement on the wheel, but I don't remember which spot. Remember, your bleeder screw has to be in the UP position. You may be able to flip it 180* from where it was before, and reverse your brake line and bleeder locations. Good luck.

This isn't the first one I've seen this happen to BTW. Glad it wasn't worse.
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:47 AM
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Chit!!! didn't even think of the bleeder.!! Hopefully it will just swap location with the brake line. Ill check it out tonight. Thank you!
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:34 AM
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Well 1 step forward, and 2 steps backwards...
This is the first time ever a EZ out actually worked. Added a little heat to the metal the broken bolt came right out.



Then apon further inspection the caliper is bent and will need to be replaced. A person might be able to bent it back and make it "work", but that is playing with safety!!! I would rather replace a caliper and do the repair correctley then have it crack down the road something worse! Who know how much the metal is fatigued. Next time I might not be as lucky!

Looks like the bolting flange is also bent a little, and the out side support for the brake pad is way jacked up. The pad dosen't even extend past the casting, the anti rattle rod for the pad you can really see how how much it is bent.



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Old 05-08-2015, 02:11 PM
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Quick question before I order a new Caliper. Zinc plated or Aluminum? The alum is only $4 more. Current ones are steel (prob zinc plated) that are painted/powercoated.
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Old 05-08-2015, 02:40 PM
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Go with the Zinc where you live. It's a bit stronger in clamping power.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:21 AM
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Out with the old in with the new. Plus a couple spare parts. Seems like the grease zerk covers or the bearing caps are always minning on at least 1 rim. Now if the weather would get back about 47 degrees!!!

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Old 07-09-2015, 08:35 AM
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Just to update this thread. The brake caliper will fit on the front side of the axel. The mounting bracket/holes that come with the axel are symmetrical . Standard 20" brake line from the parts store, and my tubing bender worked perfect.

And yes Sydwayz, I started on the furthest brake caliper to bleed the entire system . I know that was going to be your next question. HAHAHA









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