Bravo 1 steering slop
02-11-2016, 10:27 AM
#1
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Bravo 1 steering slop
I found that the slop is not in the cable as I can move the out drive and steering wheel does not turn. Do I have to take the whole outdrive apart? I saw a kit u can get by cutting an area out then install a cover. Don't want to do that. Any other options? Thank you. Oh 1996 outdrive
02-11-2016, 10:54 AM
#2
The slop comes from where the steering arm attaches to the steering pin and/or where the steering pin attaches to the gimble ring. Also hinge pin bushings and lower pin can add some slop if they are worn.
To do correctly, the engine needs to come out in order to get to the steering arm and pin hardware from in the boat without drilling from the outside.
If the parts are worn you cannot reuse them. Will need new pin, steering arm, and gimble ring (or have it welded and remachined). JR Marine is who I used and were good. Watch his video on youtube.
To do correctly, the engine needs to come out in order to get to the steering arm and pin hardware from in the boat without drilling from the outside.
If the parts are worn you cannot reuse them. Will need new pin, steering arm, and gimble ring (or have it welded and remachined). JR Marine is who I used and were good. Watch his video on youtube.
02-11-2016, 02:19 PM
#6
That kit only lets you tighten the tiller clamp, correct? There are several components involved between wheel and outdrive movement.
I think you need to do more research before cutting away when it may not do any good.
How much play do you have? When you turn the wheel does the tiller move? Does the tiller move and drive stay stationary? Is there any play on lower pin?
If the tiller arm and/or upper pin has worn tightening the bolt will not be a fix.
If removing the motor is the show-stopper, consider going with external dual ram add-on. That wont fix upper or lower pin to bushing wear but will fix the tiller to pin wear and make a bushing/pin wear a more manageable problem.
I think you need to do more research before cutting away when it may not do any good.
How much play do you have? When you turn the wheel does the tiller move? Does the tiller move and drive stay stationary? Is there any play on lower pin?
If the tiller arm and/or upper pin has worn tightening the bolt will not be a fix.
If removing the motor is the show-stopper, consider going with external dual ram add-on. That wont fix upper or lower pin to bushing wear but will fix the tiller to pin wear and make a bushing/pin wear a more manageable problem.
02-11-2016, 02:32 PM
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No not true. You remove the lower unit so u can replace all parts with stainless and new bushings. Yes the slop is in tiller arm and below. Seems the slop in the lower unit magnifies to the steering wheel. The R AND R is on you tube and I must say it is well done explains and shows the job. I have no doubt that I can make repair. Thanks for your input!!
02-11-2016, 02:56 PM
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When removing the drive, do NOT set it on your foot...and do NOT ask me how I know this....... but if doing it yourself, throw a piece of plywood or something on the cement, then crank up the trailer jack so the skeg is almost touching the wood. makes managing it much easier.
Last edited by phragle; 02-11-2016 at 02:59 PM.
