F-2 Speedy

iTrader: (6)

Recommendations, upgrading the receiver hitch on my 2005 F-250

Wanting direct bolt in replacement ( NO DRILLING )

turbofox54

Did you bend a class IV?

Unlimited jd

iTrader: (5)

Curt, they are priced right, take about 15 min to install and built very well. I have them on my 99 and 2000 f350's

F-2 Speedy

iTrader: (6)

Thanks I'll check out Curt, I cant believe how little the factory hitch is rated for, something like 5k

Edit: I found a new factory ford class 5 hitch and it is rated at 12,500 total
the Curt class 5 is rated at 17k.............so why the dig difference, I would of thought all class 5's would be the same

ohh wow

Planning on pulling down to the Tickfaw 200 next month?

F-2 Speedy

iTrader: (6)

maybe

ohh wow

Great. Hope you can make it.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Go with the Curt Hitch, unless you run across a Putnam. (Putnam has been out of business for a while, but some inventory still exists.)

I am willing to bet the hitch you found for sale is a "V-5" hitch, from the Ford Factory. Note this is VERY misconceiving; as the "V-5" is the NAME of the hitch, but it's actually only a Class-III hitch. I have one of those leaning against a tree in my backyard, after I upgraded.


I buy almost all of my towing accessories from www.etrailer.com, and occasionally I can find the same product spec on eBay with free shipping, which is the direction I will take.


Note, most of the aftermarket hitches show up with Grade-5 bolts. I can't explain that one. I always go to the local industrial supply and source Grade-8 hardware matching the sizes that show up with the hitch. I also put two nuts on each bolt as well.

F-2 Speedy

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, good info, ^^^^^ I'll leave the 5v for someone else

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Also, you will also have to find another solution for your trailer hitch wiring location.
On each of my trucks, I have drilled (with a metal hole saw) to the left of the license plate, and installed one of these:
https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Pollak/PK11893.html


Mounting through the bumper improves your rear clearance, by moving that vulnerable part up to a protected area. When you drill through the bumper, make sure you paint the edges of your cut with POR-15 or another rust preventative. The flange of the electrical connector will cover the paint.