SabrToothSqrl

I have a 1990 Chris Craft 245 LTD w/a OMC 460 King Cobra.

Each fall, the ritual winterization becomes more of a hassle.

I can drain the exhaust easy enough, with the 1" rubber ends, but draining the block, with those drain plugs is a contortion event similar to a train wreck.

Does anyone make something I can screw in, in there place, that extends it, say 6-12" and puts a nice easy valve on the bottom of?

Would that be too much to ask? I feel like I could make something from lowes, but would rather just buy something people know works.

This: https://www.marineengine.com/newpart...num=SIE18-4218

is what allegedly fits

Would this be as easy as 1/4" NPT, to a piece of 12" long 1/4" PEX, to a 1/4" ball valve?!

Thank you guys!

anyone have anything for the 1" ID hose on the exhaust? a rubber hose that's 1" on one end, and 1/2" on other with a simple valve?

anyone else hate how NO ONE designed these things to be WORKED on?

thank u much.

endeavour32

iTrader: (4)

Getrdunn and I have a slick set up to drain our blocks. It basically consists of 1/4" to AN-6 adaptor to AN-6 hose which is run up to the thermostat housing and then connects to the other side of the block via the same connections. It takes about 2 minutes to drain both blocks. I've used it now for over a year and it works perfectly.

MichiMike

I can't get to mine either. I suck anti freeze thru the water pickup in drive pull the circulation water pump hose to remove mix then fill block with 80% green thru thermostat housing. Sleep good all winter

SabrToothSqrl

Ha, so you just go drain to drain, so nothing leaks. I get it.

Looks like I'll build something this fall, when I have to pull the plugs anyway.

I see you have a 292. I'm looking at that, unless a 353 is in the budget. (Used).

I'm thinking 1/4" to 12" of flexible 1/4" tube with a 1/4" ball valve at the end. I'll zip tie it up so it doesn't swing all over the engine bay. Then just open the valve in fall to drain it. Shame I didn't think of this... 20 years ago lol

Now in stainless:

http://www.spraysmarter.com/stainles...50Bhg#419=3994

Valve.

http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?...oducts_id=1932

And some standard 3/8" clear tubing. Some zip ties. And TA-DA. No more contortion and burnt hands. (I change the oil at the same time). Or did. Now I could wait to the next day, but should install these, then change oil. Then drain block for the winter... Why don't they teach this stuff in high school?!

Obviously the exact parts may be different. EBay has some pretty cheap stuff. One could even hard mount the drain end.. Get pretty fancy.

SabrToothSqrl

You could mount this low, under the engine

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camco-22223-...5XVSK4&vxp=mtr

Mr Maine

I use ball valves on pipe nipples, whatever length works best. Can still stick a welding rod in if i need to clear out debris.

endeavour32

iTrader: (4)

I was also going to do ball valves but I like the system I described above way more. No ball valves, nothing to mount and worry about, dead simple, and doesn't leak. I would get push lock fittings and hoses, it will cost $65 for both engines and it looks nice.

BenPerfected

The problem we have had with draining the blocks is that all the rust and black goop ends up in the bilge. IMO, it is much cleaner and easier to winterize with antifreeze.

SabrToothSqrl

I've only been in fresh for the past 26 years. Now brackish... just need this thing to hold together 4 more years... or until my car is paid off... lol.

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

1/4" npt to -6 AN adapter on each side of block joined at housing for simple disconnect and drain. Push lok hose and fittings.