super duty 4x4 shift on the fly
#1
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super duty 4x4 shift on the fly
Have an issue with the aut hubs, once in four wheel drive they won't release when the transfer case is disengaged and continue to drive the case. I took the auto locking hubs apart and cleaned and regreased them , replced the vacuum lines already. The o rings on the outside my be bad but I wasn't able to get them out .
Secondly how much vacuum should be required to actuate the hubs ? Thanks for any clues
Secondly how much vacuum should be required to actuate the hubs ? Thanks for any clues
#3
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When I discovered this I was chsing a squeek , changed pads and rotors , noticed that spinning the wheel turned the driveline to the transfer case. So i took the the hubs apart and went all through them , inside they looked new , but I cleaned and regreased , noticed then that the vacuum line looked rather old and porous.
2000 f 250 by the way . I needed 4x4 a while back and had to remove hub and push the mechanism back till it caught to spin free again.
2000 f 250 by the way . I needed 4x4 a while back and had to remove hub and push the mechanism back till it caught to spin free again.
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Port Deposit Md
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I don't know anyone that hasn't had issues from Ford 250/350 auto hubs. (me included) Save yourself a lot of headache and busted knuckles and replace the stock ones with Warn hubs and you will just have to lock and unlock them by hand. But they will work every time you make her get out to lock them.
#5
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I don't know anyone that hasn't had issues from Ford 250/350 auto hubs. (me included) Save yourself a lot of headache and busted knuckles and replace the stock ones with Warn hubs and you will just have to lock and unlock them by hand. But they will work every time you make her get out to lock them.
#6
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My stock hubs worked great for a lot of years, but not any more. I've cleaned and greased my stock hubs many many times. Now I just give up and spin the axle. Due to the expense of new stock hubs (my first choice because I really like how they work, when they worked) I plan now to go with Warn.
#7
did you recently have any service work done on the hubs? Guy here at work had the same issue....there are some plastic thrust washers in the hubs with goves on the face....if they are installed backwards it wont release....groove have to be facing outwards facing you....also those thrust washers can wear down overtime as well...
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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#8
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Are you talking about the outer face where you turn them in and out? That's the only part I was unable to disassemble, supposed to be able to turn to the dimple and they come off to replace o rings. I had no luck with either one. Guess I'll just have to try again, thanks.
#9
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Pull the big snap ring holding the whole hub in place on the wheel, and then pull the locking hub assembly out. may need a rubber mallet to free it up.
Then, working from the inboard part of the hub, where the splines are, start removing all the snap rings and gears and parts, keeping them in order on the bench, until you get to a funny spring-loaded plastic part that looks, to me, like the old yellow pages walking fingers. Not sure how to get further than that. I then add a lot of ATF inside, and let it soak. Repeat a few times if needed.
There is a diaphragm near the outboard part of the hub, that is necessary for the vacuum to function. Not sure if you can get to it, or if it's even replaceable. Ford does not think this is a repairable item, and will sell you new ones instead. At least that's how it was a few years ago last I checked.
On edit: Looks like you got that far, when I reread your post more carefully. But, I'll leave this here for future readers who may benefit.
Then, working from the inboard part of the hub, where the splines are, start removing all the snap rings and gears and parts, keeping them in order on the bench, until you get to a funny spring-loaded plastic part that looks, to me, like the old yellow pages walking fingers. Not sure how to get further than that. I then add a lot of ATF inside, and let it soak. Repeat a few times if needed.
There is a diaphragm near the outboard part of the hub, that is necessary for the vacuum to function. Not sure if you can get to it, or if it's even replaceable. Ford does not think this is a repairable item, and will sell you new ones instead. At least that's how it was a few years ago last I checked.
On edit: Looks like you got that far, when I reread your post more carefully. But, I'll leave this here for future readers who may benefit.