Interresting teardown
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Interresting teardown
I'm getting ready to rebuild my boat engine. I bought it two years ago knowing it had issues, it was running very rich, I pitched the edlebrock carb in the dumpster put on a 750cfm Holly marine carb, pitched the dinky flame arrestor and got a big one, added 12degrees timing and all was well. The fuel pump went out and that's when it all went south. I must have damaged the diaphragm it pumped the crankcase full of fuel and washed the bearings out, needle and seats where fine. got the engine on the stand and found it had a hydraulic roller valve train Good. Pulled a head and saw fly cuts on top of the bores for valve relief? went back to the head sure enough monster valves. 049 big oval port heads. pulled the camshaft comp cams 260h. it gets better, the boat has silent choice exaust now were for the air to go. good 4 bolt block with cast crap for a rotating assembly. Back in the day I built loads of 440 mopar drag engines, I lost a good friend because a eagle h beam rod broke on a 500hp motor that was the 90s who is the go to today. my pockets aren't deep enough to go with oliver rods. bearings and ring gap marine builds are uncharted waters for me.
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Molnar cranks and rods are pretty commonly used here but not really sure what it is exactly what your looking for. Advice on ring gaps and bearing clearances? Or rotating assm? If your. It going crazy on build you'd be safe with pretty much any imported 4340 forged internals. Molnar is just in gr but will cost you a little more money.
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ooohhh I did call him a friend, he was a stupid pr2ck that thought he could win a race doing a 7500rpm water box burnout, you most likely have one in your hood. you know the type. Thanks for the tip, I will google molinar.
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Rob,
I have never had an issue with Eagles good stuff, including a couple of 650 hp 440 stroker drag enignes. If the rod broke it was likely caused by something else.
For what you are doing I would not hesitate to use them, just make sure to check everything 100%. If you want to spend a little more money Callies is probably the next step up without spending a mint.
What kind of power are you trying to make ? The stock GM steel cranks will live forever at moderate HP levels.
I have never had an issue with Eagles good stuff, including a couple of 650 hp 440 stroker drag enignes. If the rod broke it was likely caused by something else.
For what you are doing I would not hesitate to use them, just make sure to check everything 100%. If you want to spend a little more money Callies is probably the next step up without spending a mint.
What kind of power are you trying to make ? The stock GM steel cranks will live forever at moderate HP levels.
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The rod parted just below the wristpin. a lot of people are telling me the same thing, Eagle stuff will handle 1000hp. The crank in it now is cast, stock rods 3/8 rod bolts, a forged rotating assembly is a must for me. I have to keep the build modest she's a old boat with a Alpha drive so 400/450hp. A fresh crisp engine able to do long runs at 3500/3800 without filling the bilge with oil and broken parts. I talked to my machinist today same thing Eagle, he is swamped with work he said he would sneak me in being one of the few willing to do are own assembly work. I have two 427 GM forged cranks but no 454. I sure would like to bypass the silent choice but I don't want to turn it into a cop caller, haven't been stopped in two years not bad for a tramp boater like me. Thanks for your advice Bill.
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The rod parted just below the wristpin. a lot of people are telling me the same thing, Eagle stuff will handle 1000hp. The crank in it now is cast, stock rods 3/8 rod bolts, a forged rotating assembly is a must for me. I have to keep the build modest she's a old boat with a Alpha drive so 400/450hp. A fresh crisp engine able to do long runs at 3500/3800 without filling the bilge with oil and broken parts. I talked to my machinist today same thing Eagle, he is swamped with work he said he would sneak me in being one of the few willing to do are own assembly work. I have two 427 GM forged cranks but no 454. I sure would like to bypass the silent choice but I don't want to turn it into a cop caller, haven't been stopped in two years not bad for a tramp boater like me. Thanks for your advice Bill.
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have two 427 cranks no4" I will pony up for a respectable bottom end. Yes I was hinting abought bearing material and ring end gap. this is my first marine build and want to get it right. oh love that picture big launch.
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yes good 4 bolt block I have, I just cant bring myself to throw 29 year old rods that are stretched out worse than Madona's pee hole back in it. I pamper the drive, change the lube twice each season the drain oil has always been clean, no holeshots just run hard as hell when the big lake is calm.