bravo hinge pin
04-16-2003, 08:50 PM
#1
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bravo hinge pin
I just discovered one of my drive hinge pins is stripped
from to bell housing. My boat doesn't have trim senders
but for some reason it has the hinge pin setup for a
drive with trim senders,but instead of senders there
are plates over the pin. When I took the plate off the
pin fell out. It appears that it threads into the bell
housing,but the threads are gone. It also has no bushing
in the gimbel ring side. Does anybody know of a repair kit
assailable? Has anyone ran into this and come up with a
repair without having to by a new bell housing?
Thanks for any advice.
from to bell housing. My boat doesn't have trim senders
but for some reason it has the hinge pin setup for a
drive with trim senders,but instead of senders there
are plates over the pin. When I took the plate off the
pin fell out. It appears that it threads into the bell
housing,but the threads are gone. It also has no bushing
in the gimbel ring side. Does anybody know of a repair kit
assailable? Has anyone ran into this and come up with a
repair without having to by a new bell housing?
Thanks for any advice.
04-16-2003, 08:58 PM
#2
Try doing a seach under hinge pin in this forum.
I had the same problem. My transon assembly need a lot of other work also so I replaced it.
But some guys have heli coiled them.
If i were to do it I would have it welded and retapped.
There is some on here who does it. I'll look for him.
I had the same problem. My transon assembly need a lot of other work also so I replaced it.
But some guys have heli coiled them.
If i were to do it I would have it welded and retapped.
There is some on here who does it. I'll look for him.
04-16-2003, 09:05 PM
#3
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I had alot of problems with this heli coiled it and loctite everything. It lasted quite a long time. I have since done some mods on my own and will be seeing if it all holds together this summer beefed up hinge pin diameter and made my own bushings out of oil impregnated nylon bored gimbal for new bushings and did the loctite thing. Time will tell good luck hinge pins falling out can really spoil a day
'
'
04-16-2003, 09:25 PM
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Thats what I was going to do,the helicoil,threadlock treatment,but I am a little concerned about the coil,
they are not stainless & I leave my boat in the water.
Tell me where you got the bushings,does merc sell these
separate, or does it only come in the gimbel ring? If you
made them,where did you get the material?
they are not stainless & I leave my boat in the water.
Tell me where you got the bushings,does merc sell these
separate, or does it only come in the gimbel ring? If you
made them,where did you get the material?
04-17-2003, 06:08 PM
#5
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Heli-coils are available in stainless. Ask "rambunctious" on the heli-coil part#. If you need the drill bit, I have that and will lend it to you. If you need a bushing, I may have that and just give it to you if I can find it.
04-17-2003, 08:19 PM
#6
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I sent cig1988 my kit.
it came with a tap, 6 helicoils, and a special helicoil install tool
I used 1, he used 1, and you are wecome to use it.
the helicoils are stainless. use nothing else!!!!!
used a fewe drops of red locktite, first to put ethe helicoil in, then one drop on the bolt threads.
I bought three bolts at i think$15-20 bucks each before fixing it right this way.
one other thing I made was a delron block with a hole sized for the drill to use. I set it against the drive casting and it kept my hand drill true to the original hole. I did this whole repair without removing the drive. just remove the other bolt and slide the drive back just enough to get enough surface for the drill guide i mention. the drive shaft spline will jsut slide the 3 inches or so and not become disengaged from the engine.
one other thing. I held a thin sheetmetal plate behind the casting between it and the rubber bellows while i drilled so my drill wouldn't cut the bellows if i pushed through too fast.
private message me your address and monday i can ship the kit to you. it's already been to new york, and back to me in Michigan.
you will need the correct drill, ( i borrowed one ) and i'll look for my drill guide i made too.
the bushings are a merc part. they may come with the bolts, or ask for them too. simple 2 toned plastic bushing.
oh.. and get the right, long levered allen wrench or tip for a socket wrench. and torque to spec.
it came with a tap, 6 helicoils, and a special helicoil install tool
I used 1, he used 1, and you are wecome to use it.
the helicoils are stainless. use nothing else!!!!!
used a fewe drops of red locktite, first to put ethe helicoil in, then one drop on the bolt threads.
I bought three bolts at i think$15-20 bucks each before fixing it right this way.
one other thing I made was a delron block with a hole sized for the drill to use. I set it against the drive casting and it kept my hand drill true to the original hole. I did this whole repair without removing the drive. just remove the other bolt and slide the drive back just enough to get enough surface for the drill guide i mention. the drive shaft spline will jsut slide the 3 inches or so and not become disengaged from the engine.
one other thing. I held a thin sheetmetal plate behind the casting between it and the rubber bellows while i drilled so my drill wouldn't cut the bellows if i pushed through too fast.
private message me your address and monday i can ship the kit to you. it's already been to new york, and back to me in Michigan.
you will need the correct drill, ( i borrowed one ) and i'll look for my drill guide i made too.
the bushings are a merc part. they may come with the bolts, or ask for them too. simple 2 toned plastic bushing.
oh.. and get the right, long levered allen wrench or tip for a socket wrench. and torque to spec.
04-17-2003, 08:52 PM
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Epeek, I did the heli coil route as well. I think all heli coils are stainless. I did precisely what rambuncious said. The only thing I would add is, when drilling the oversized hole it is helpful to dull about 1" of the end of the drill bit with sandpaper or on a grinder. This prevents the drill bit from grabbing as you are drilling... a common problem when opening up a hole only a small amount. Definately use the sheet metal behind the hole or you will drill right through your bellows. I stress my equipment to the max and it has held very well!
Good luck,
BT
Good luck,
BT
04-21-2003, 04:17 PM
#9
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Just FYI guys,
A friend of mine is a machinist and we have been toying with the idea of reparing bellhousings and gimbal rings. The price being as prohibitive as it is for these parts and the fact that they seem to fail quite frequently seems to make a repair job even more attractive. The problem we ran into with mine was that the threaded hole in the bellhousing had elongated so we couldn't just install Heli-coil. We are boring the hole to 1" in a milling machine and threading the housing and a aluminum a slug to fit. Then we will bore and thread the inside of the slug to fit pivot pin. If we can get this repair down to a simple, quick process, we will be able to offer it at a much better price than the $350+ tag that comes with a new bellhousing. The gimbal ring, at a cost of $750+ also can be repaired and we are working on that as well, along with the idea of some different (read: better) bushing options. Obviously, those that can repair their own wouldn't be interested, but for those that can't, we may be able to offer a cost-effective (and improved) option.
A friend of mine is a machinist and we have been toying with the idea of reparing bellhousings and gimbal rings. The price being as prohibitive as it is for these parts and the fact that they seem to fail quite frequently seems to make a repair job even more attractive. The problem we ran into with mine was that the threaded hole in the bellhousing had elongated so we couldn't just install Heli-coil. We are boring the hole to 1" in a milling machine and threading the housing and a aluminum a slug to fit. Then we will bore and thread the inside of the slug to fit pivot pin. If we can get this repair down to a simple, quick process, we will be able to offer it at a much better price than the $350+ tag that comes with a new bellhousing. The gimbal ring, at a cost of $750+ also can be repaired and we are working on that as well, along with the idea of some different (read: better) bushing options. Obviously, those that can repair their own wouldn't be interested, but for those that can't, we may be able to offer a cost-effective (and improved) option.
