Waterfoul

I currently running it this way:

cable from switch pos. 1 to positive on bat. 1
cable from switch pos. 2 to postivie on bat. 2
cable from common to block ground.
negatives on batteries tied together with battery cable.

Last night, one of my battery boxes came unscrewed from the floor and pulled the connecting negative cable off one battery. Engine never fluctuated, gauges remained normal. BUT, when I went to restart after dinner, I got next to nothing for power. Engine would not turn over. After getting the hatch up (with some help, it did go up under power). Reconnected the negative cable to both batteries and it fired right up. Both batteries are 2 seasons old, but seem to hold a charge well enough. Am I wrong, do I have one bad battery? Seems to me that it should still have started. Do I have the wiring correct??? I normally just leave the switch in the ALL position. I also run a 75 amp alternator, so I know I have good charging power.

'Foul

MACDAD260

Who cares about a dumb battery switch! Where are the cove pictures from LOTO?

Seriously, how ya doin? Must be having a good time if the only thing that went wrong is a battery. Your wiring setup sounds right although, I don't think you need to tie the battery grounds together at the batteries. They are already connected since both are grounded to the block. SOunds like you have a bad battery. Try putting the switch on first one battery and then the other. Start the motor, or lift the hatch. If you have a bad one it should be obvious.

Are you home? How was the trip? All us losers that stayed home last weekend to work on our boats can't wait to hear.

See ya, Doug



P.S. Your avitar makes me dizzy.

Waterfoul

Doug, I didn't really take many pics. Tom had the digital, I'm working on getting him to post some. Got home LATE Monday night. Made a run to saugatuck with the SEA100 Boat Club we run at work. 11 boats, 36 people. You should come with us some time.

I followed the diagram that came with the switch, so I'm assuming I have the wiring correct.

Cord

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like you have the wiring correct. My guess would be a bad connection, terminal or cable. It can be a real bear to track down as the circuit will pass voltage, but not high amperage.

Now don't let Tom lose these pics!

florida gator

I'm glad you posted this. I just replaced my #2 battery as I thought it was completely dead. After I hooked up the new battery, still nothing. I know that one is not dead since my #1 battery was low I ran jumper cables to the other and it fired right up. Mine seems to be wired as you have described above. Any ideas?

SSComp

Just to be sure (single engine):

#1 from switch to #1 positive
#2 from switch to #2 positive
common (load) from switch to the STARTER.
Ground connected from battery to the other batter then to the engine block.

Only run on "all" when the engine is running or starting.

When at dock run only 1 or 2, not all. Two benefits. First if you drain a battery with your stereo you have one in reserve. Second if one battery is bad it will drain the other.

If you question your battery, charge it up with the switch in off position. Once charged switch to it only. If good CCA the battery is good. If you still have a question take to Walmart they will test for free (be sure it is charged)

Waterfoul

I always run on one when sitting still (the deep cycle). Switch to all when starting. Switch off when on the charger.

Now that I think of it, I may not have the load (common) going to the starter. I'll have to check. Seems to me it went to ground, but I could be wrong.

bowtie

If common goes to ground and you turn the switch anywhere but off, you'll be frying wires. It sounds like the ground that pulled off was the ground to from the engine to the battery. I like to run a seperate ground to each battery instead of the jumper between batteries.

mcollinstn

Yes, you most certainly have the common post on the switch connected to the positive lug on the starter solenoid. I assure you of that.

The alternative would be trashed batteries and a big puddle of orange plastic where the switch used to be (and probably a bunch of battery cables with no insulation on them at all).

doright

Try this:

http://marinemechanic.com/site/page21.html