Tantrum

Re-doing the garage and need an air compressor.
It will not get tons of use but I do want to have it when I need it to run air tools. I also want it to be small enough to fit under the work bench. I put in 220 to run it if needed and the bench is not biult yet so I can biuld around it if needed.
I dont have any air tools yet but I know there is a CFM rating on them. Just want to make sure I will be able to buy the tools I want when ready.
What size should I get?
What type? Isnt there different piston sleeves ect?
Thanks for the help.

Scott72

If you are going to want to do any sand blasting, your gonna want to run at least a 6 HP compressor that is a 2 stage with at least 60 gallons but 80 would be better. Your gonna have to run 220 for this. We have a 60 gallon 5 HP stand up that is a single stage. It is 220 volt. I works great for painting and all our air tools including the impact wrench, but when it comes to our sandblaster and our bead blast cabinet it is working extemely hard to keep up. Okay for the bead blaster, but needs more for the sand blaster. Works fine for our DA sander. Not sure of the CFM but I think it is 9 or 10. I could be wrong but you may want more around 11. Hope this helps.

Cord

iTrader: (2)

Don't go with the wimpy oilless compressors. They are lying about the motor hp rating. There is no way a true 6hp motor will run on a 20a 120v circuit. It would be closer to 40a at 220v. For a true comparison, look at the cfm rating. Now different mfrs. will rate their compressors at different psi. The higher the psi the lower the cfm will be, but be aware of a mfr that rates their compressor at 40psi. They are rating at a low pressure so the cfm looks larger than what it really is. You'll be wanting something around 8cfm at 80psi. This compressor won't be able to sustain a cutoff tool or die grinder continuously, but it will work good for intermittent use. The motor will proably work on either 120v or 220v, so it's your choice. 120v will be a bit more portable. Some mfrs like to put a small compressor on a huge tank so it looks bigger. True, you'll have more capacity which will help a marginal compressor, but it's the head that determines output, not tank size or hp rating. 2 stage is really nice for busting frozen nuts loose, but single stage is perfect for your application. Besides, single stage compressors put out more air (at a lower psi).

Here's a really nice one to compare against...http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...mId=1611627092

bobby daniels

just be sure and use 2 stage at least and a 60 gallon tank !!!!

puder

go to www.mcindoo.com

i did thier website, its a friend of mine's father's company. they sell compressors and stuff

Zanie

Good points all around.
Air Tools:
Air tools are mostly rated ""average CFM" which is a 25% duty cycle, mostly because your not gonna run an tool continously.
Compressors: Sometime in the past it became OK to give your horsepower as Max Developed, so now thats what everybody does, they just don't all tell you.
For light usage a large tank and high pressure helps mask low pump output, which is OK if you have some big CFM tools that you won't use that often.
I like oil lube compressors myself. Craftsman has a nice 2 cyl single stage unit 6 HP with 8.6cfm @40 and 6.8 @90 #19541 for under $400(you can check it out at Craftsman.com). Runs on 110 or 220V. A buddy of mine has an older version of this compressor (the newer version is rated at higher tank pressure; 150 vs 135). He does allottta automotive work out of his garage and it keeps up without a problem.

DS

Love Machine

I bought a 7hp 60gal compressor from Tractor Supply Co and love it. It's a 2 piston belt driven compressor and runs off of 220V. Cost arout $250. Cambell Hausfeld.

mcollinstn

4 horsepower (actual) is about all you'll want to run off 120v. Anything with a continuous rating above that is better to run at 220.

Look for a belt-driven pump. They run with an oil bath and are quieter and longer lasting. Cheap ones use cast aluminum pumps. Better ones use cast iron pumps. An aluminum pump may last you forever if you keep the air filter clean, give it plenty of air for cooling and change the lube once or twice a year with synthetic recip compressor lube.

If you do not plan to run line pressures above 100psi, then definitely go with a single stage compressor.

A tank size of 20 gallons is a minimum, but works fairly well for homeowner use.

A DA sander or air chisel will be your most greedy tools you'll use at home. An air impact uses air only intermittently. Air ratchets don't use much at all. Die grinder not too awful bad.

DA sander usually gets used for 15 minutes at a time - this is an air user for sure. You'll need a 5 horse compressor to feed a DA sander continuously. But then again, a 4 horse 20 gallon will run it for 10 minutes at a time and be ready for more with a quick break for a glass of water, etc.

Buy a good water separator filter to put in line with your main feed. Then replace the cheap tee valves on the tank drain and the separator with easy to use bronze gate valves with levers on them. Drain water often (more in warmer weather).

LM's $250 compressor sounds like a major bargain.

David

Most important is output- XX cfm@ x psi. Look for minimum
10 cfm@90 psi. Low ratings are useless.

Cord

iTrader: (2)

DON'T go off of HP ratings. You must look at the cfm at x psi. That is the only way to compare compressors.