Outdrive play??
06-22-2003, 05:32 PM
#1
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Outdrive play??
I don't know if this is normal but I have an 89 formula 206 with either a bravo 1 or an alpha 1 I don't know. I haven't put it in the water yet but when I move the outdrive from side to side it moves about 8 inches and the steering wheel doesn't turn?? is that normal it seems like at stops at one way but then can push the other way. my father said he thinks it supposed to be like that and the force of the prop will bush it to one side, But this bothers me?? any help would be appreciated thanks !!!!
06-22-2003, 07:58 PM
#2
Gone Fishin'
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Location: Grand Rapids/Holland/Grand Haven
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8" is way too much. Could be the steering cable is stretched out or broken.
Bravo one will say Bravo One on it. Alpha will say Alpha. Bravo is much bigger drive also.
Bravo one will say Bravo One on it. Alpha will say Alpha. Bravo is much bigger drive also.
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06-22-2003, 08:20 PM
#3
Charter Member
Charter Member
Common problem, easy solution. Pull engine, remove transom assy, replace gimbal ring, steering lever and pin. Reinstall engine. How can you buy a boat without knowing if it's an Alpha or a Bravo?
06-23-2003, 08:32 AM
#5
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Easy to fix! Don't pull motor!!!!!
First, DON'T PULL THE MOTOR...... DON'T PULL THE MOTOR.....
My tiller arm and upper swivel pin had the same amount of play, and here is what I did to repair without pulling the motor.
First, remove the drvie from the transom assembly.
Now, you will use the two lower bolts just under the rear engine mount to hold the inner transom plate/motor in place. Remove the top bolts and all the nuts from the inside and carefully loosen the the lower two bolts while pulling the drive from the outside. This will leave the bolts sticking through the transom holding everything in place. In my case, I didn't even need the bolts there as the weight of the engine against the angled transom kept everything in place.
Now, make your repairs to you steering.
Note!!! This procedure will work if you have an angled transom! Not sure of a straight transom????
My tiller arm and upper swivel pin had the same amount of play, and here is what I did to repair without pulling the motor.
First, remove the drvie from the transom assembly.
Now, you will use the two lower bolts just under the rear engine mount to hold the inner transom plate/motor in place. Remove the top bolts and all the nuts from the inside and carefully loosen the the lower two bolts while pulling the drive from the outside. This will leave the bolts sticking through the transom holding everything in place. In my case, I didn't even need the bolts there as the weight of the engine against the angled transom kept everything in place.
Now, make your repairs to you steering.
Note!!! This procedure will work if you have an angled transom! Not sure of a straight transom????
06-23-2003, 09:25 AM
#6
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Unless it has been replaced with a Bravo, a Formula 206 will almost always have an Alpha1 with probably a 350 Mag. It will have a straight Transom with the Silent Thunder Platform above it. As stated 8" is far too much. My friends Donzi had the same problem at the end of last season. Didn't realize it and it Chine walked so badly up around 70 (500 EFI) that I almost poo'd myself. Took the boat out and could do the same thing. It could be the cable, but there is something on the Gimble that goes. I think Merc makes a repair kit because you can't get at it. Not real sure how it works, but I know you have to drill a hole to fix it. Not sure if it is the same on Alpha's, but there is the kit for Bravos. My buddy had to do it then he added external steering for safety.
06-23-2003, 10:49 AM
#7
Gold Member
Gold Member
First, Welcome bowtie89.
I'll bet you and I are the only ones here with a 206 Formula. Follow this link to see my Formula Iggy's F-206
If you have the 350 MAG engine, then you have an Alpha drive.
Like Waterfoul said, it will say "Alpha" on the drive, as long as no one removed the decals.
Can you talk to the previous owner?
How many hours are on the boat?
Do you know if the steering cable has been replaced?
Do you know if the steering system in the instrument panel is good? They too wear out.
Have you checked the power steering ram for loose bolts?
If the tiller (steering arm) or gimbal assemby is worn it would be easier (in my opinion) to replace the entire assembly. Mine has play but not as much as yours. I also have play in the upper and lower steering shaft bushings. To me it would be quicker to just replace the whole thing. A rebuilt transom assembly goes for about $1200.00.
I like patrick22309's way of pulling the assy. off the transom. The usual way is to pull the engine out first.
Let us know what you find.
BTW, where you at?
I'll bet you and I are the only ones here with a 206 Formula. Follow this link to see my Formula Iggy's F-206
If you have the 350 MAG engine, then you have an Alpha drive.
Like Waterfoul said, it will say "Alpha" on the drive, as long as no one removed the decals.
Can you talk to the previous owner?
How many hours are on the boat?
Do you know if the steering cable has been replaced?
Do you know if the steering system in the instrument panel is good? They too wear out.
Have you checked the power steering ram for loose bolts?
If the tiller (steering arm) or gimbal assemby is worn it would be easier (in my opinion) to replace the entire assembly. Mine has play but not as much as yours. I also have play in the upper and lower steering shaft bushings. To me it would be quicker to just replace the whole thing. A rebuilt transom assembly goes for about $1200.00.
I like patrick22309's way of pulling the assy. off the transom. The usual way is to pull the engine out first.
Let us know what you find.
BTW, where you at?
Last edited by Iggy; 06-23-2003 at 10:58 AM.
06-30-2003, 08:41 AM
#9
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hauling the engine
Well we thought about drilling the holes in the housing, thats seems a little much becuase you need special tools. We are going to haul the engine and get to it that way. We should be able to pull the housing off and then get to the worn parts that way. any suggestions on what we have to take off or tips on doing it we have acces to lifts and stuff for the hauling of the engine. How long is this gonna take???
06-30-2003, 09:40 AM
#10
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Engine Removal Options/Prior Post
I posted early on in the tread and this weekend I did it again.
I successfully removed my entire drive to install a new inner transom plate that was cracked. Here is what I did.
Removed the drive/transom assemble leaving the leaving the thru-transom bolts in place. Put the engine crane on the engine rear lift bracket and loosened the front engine mout nuts, removed the rear engine mout bolts. I then removed my exhaust tips so the engine would tilt forward when I raised the lift. Bam, the inner transom plate came out without problem.
You can do the same thing to repair your drive without removing the engine and you probably will not need the crane. It is very easy and I see many of the best local shops in the DC area doing it this way. In fact, it was a shop exclusive to off-shore racing that showed me the trick, they said they have not pulled a motor to repair drive/steering parts in years.
Do it this way, quick and easy unless your engine needs some work. Even the steering arm and upper swivel pin are easy to repalce once on the work bench and all you need it the tool for the gimble bolts.
I successfully removed my entire drive to install a new inner transom plate that was cracked. Here is what I did.
Removed the drive/transom assemble leaving the leaving the thru-transom bolts in place. Put the engine crane on the engine rear lift bracket and loosened the front engine mout nuts, removed the rear engine mout bolts. I then removed my exhaust tips so the engine would tilt forward when I raised the lift. Bam, the inner transom plate came out without problem.
You can do the same thing to repair your drive without removing the engine and you probably will not need the crane. It is very easy and I see many of the best local shops in the DC area doing it this way. In fact, it was a shop exclusive to off-shore racing that showed me the trick, they said they have not pulled a motor to repair drive/steering parts in years.
Do it this way, quick and easy unless your engine needs some work. Even the steering arm and upper swivel pin are easy to repalce once on the work bench and all you need it the tool for the gimble bolts.
