88Fount33

Newbie to twin engine boat, and while out on the water one day......at 50+Mph as I turned the wheel slightly to the right or left, the back end seemed to want to come around on me...alarming at first....and did not know what was going on until one day....while the local drive specialist was checking for worn u-joints noticed that the drives could swing back and forth a good 30 degrees without turning the steering wheel. I opened the hatch to see that this was all slack in the linkage. I know to "fix" this I should go on to hydraulic but as we all, do not want to sink $$$ and $$$ into this old barge, but I can't just run out and get another one. Add-On is what I think I need, but do not want add-on that is difficult to use at low speeds, I have lots of low speed canals I have/like to visit. Please give me comments (PM's also) about brands and low speed drive-ability. I did put a swim platform on the back from B-Bracket so there are two support struts between the drives.

RLW

Sounds like an old TRS with the slpine shaft connector to the tiller arm. Full hyd. is the way to go if you intend to be running at 65+. Otherwise, just upgrade to the square shaft, tiller arm system. Either way it cost's money but you do need to do something NOW before you kill someone. Been there-done that! (but nobody died) --- anonymous

88Fount33

The steering yoke is the square bore and this is not loose, it is the linkage to the yoke.

But that is not the issue, I want to convert it to hydraulic, the only question I have is do I invest in the full hydraulic or the Add-On. I understand that full is the best, but is it worth the extra $$$ now and how many of us started with the add-on and then had to go on and do the full system anyway?

jpclear

OK--I'm the guy who talked to you about tiller arm play.(on RLW's computer). When you say "linkage to the yoke", are we talking about one of the little yoke linkages inside at the transom, or the major yoke that is part of the external outdrive assembly?? You need to determine this first before making the final decision. If you have bad stuff outboard, then you need to fix it before you decide how you are going to make it turn. Check your stuff further and get back. --- Jer --- (no longer anonymous)

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

My previous boat had the dual add on Lathem. While a tad stiffer at idle, it was never an issue. Actually never noticed it unless I was thinking of it at the time. By all means, at least get the add-on.

88Fount33

The part I am referring to is the tiller arm inside the boat. The Gimbel, drive and exterior components outside the boat are tight. Also there is an external tie bar on the drives that is per spec. The loose components are related to the internal tie bar that is made in three pieces bolted together and the shoulder bolts that connect this tie bar to the tiller arms. It is not worth repairing, better just to go with external hydraulic.

p4-33

I have a complete Merc Quicksilver steering system that came out of an 86 10-meter. It has components from the helm all the way to the steering ram that mounts inside the transom, linkage, steering cable, the works. I removed it all when upgrading to a Latham setup.

I'll sell the whole package Real Cheap. If you're looking to fix what you have without spending alot, this may help.

Nothing beats the stability of a dual ram full hydraulic system, and twin pumps add redundancy in case something takes a crap. Try to hold onto the steering wheel at speed when your only PS belt lets loose. Been there, done that, and just happy I had ALOT of room around me. This event convinced me to go hydraulic.

Whatever your decision, this isn't something that should wait.

Good luck,
Brian

Gary Anderson

The add on system still uses the existing hydraulic system (pump, booster cylinder, linkage etc). I wasn't sure from your description what was worn out. But make sure all this stuff is good or you'll probably end up spending more for the ad on than a full hydraulic system.

Allan4

88...I sent you a PM.

Thanks