splashandburn

I am getting ready to change my oil for the final time this season and I have 2 questions:

1) I've read that I should change the oil now and then again in the Spring to remove any moisture that has accumulated over the Winter. Should I change the FILTER now and then again in the Spring too?

2) I have run Mobil 1 synthetic all season - do I need to put M1 back in for the Winter or can I just use a standard straight 30W oil and then go back to M1 once I'm ready to run again in the Spring?

Thanks for the help.

Strip Poker 388

iTrader: (6)

They recommend changing before the winter lay upand if I was up north I would .I have never done it and when I would go thru the motors it would not show any signs of rust. Then on my blower motors I tore them down every winter any way

I am pulling my 500efi,s out now for a freshen up and we will see what I have then.need mo power

Lmarth

Rob-- I'm sure you'll keep us posted as your upgrade progresses. I lost the heat indoor storage I've enjoyed the last four years. Found heated storage closer by and cheaper. The original owner of my boat bought a new toy I'll be parked next to. It's a new 42 Outer Limits with twin 1500hp Sterlings/SSM#6's with a wild paint job. Supposedly has 2 hours on it but looks like it's never been in the water. Lou

HeavyChevSS

I live down south so don't have to winterize so that makes me ask-
What would cause condensation in motor if it is not run?
Why not just change oil as part of your spring prep?
Thanks just trying to learn...
Rich

Lmarth

Rich-- I'm sure others will give you a more eloquent answer than mine but here goes. There are many byproducts of the combustion process that winds up in the oil pan. Some are acidic,others are burnt fuel residue that went by the rings, etc. We change the oil and filter as part of the layup process. Many folks spray a fogging oil into the intake system while the engine is running until it stalls out leaving an oil residue in the combustion chamber. The problem with the northern winters is the constant cyling of temperature,humidity,etc that can result in condensation in the motors. Obviously the water plugs in the block are removed to drain the block. Same for the exhaust system. Antifreeze is run through the engine to prevent freezeup. Others may have a slightly different perspective. Just my .02 Lou

Strip Poker 388

iTrader: (6)

2 hours thats a waste.

I always change my oil the first trip out in spring Our lay up time here is about 3 1/2 months.Mine will be longer this winter because I am going thru the motors starting Oct

Lmarth I agree the fogging oil it does work .I have seen little rust stains from the condensation in the cylinder walls on some of the motors I have tore down for people.


Here is a pick of what a exhaust manifold leak will do .It only sat with the water in it for 2 weeks . But probably been leaking all summer.We did not know it was leaking ,it was running fine.Tore it down to put a supercharger on it .We got lucky on this one it honed out.

Lmarth

Rob--interesting pictures. I expected a little nit picking on my post from people like myself that might leave an old car sit outside all winter without starting it. Seems we never have a problem with them. As your pictures show, water/condensation can be insidious. It doesn't take a lot to cause problems. Maybe overkill with a fuel system that has fuel/water separators, but a few weeks ago with the season winding down, I put about six bottles of "dry gas" in the tank to break up any water that may have accumulated in fuel bowls,etc. Half empty aluminum fuel tanks also "sweat" which doesn't help.I'm sure some of this is overkill,but it doesn't take a lot to mess up those nice smooth cylinder walls. Care to share with us what the plans are for the motor upgrade? Lou

Hydrocruiser

I drain the oil out at the end of the season and put new filters on and then when I re-install the batteries fill 'em up with oil come spring.

splashandburn

So you leave the motors with no oil in them all winter? I guess all the oil drains out anyway but it just seems like the right thing to do to leave them full of oil??

Hydrocruiser

Just a habit I got into.

-Gas stabilizer added and the tanks filled and go out for a last 1/2 hour run.

-I use a flusher with a tank and run 6 gallons of antifreeze into the engines via the drive's pick-ups. First I warm the engines to open the stats then the anti-freeze. Keeps the impeller in good shape and avoids rust. I add a can of anti-corrosion fluid to the solution.

-Then fog really well with Merc's product.

-Then I drain the oil and pull off the old oil filters and gasoline filters and put on new oil and gas filters. Probably will add oil now that I am using Mobil-1 20W-50 but not run the engine with the new oil in there. Keep the oil filters dry and new.

-Pull out the batteries.

-Change drive fluid.

Cover with a large plastic tarp or shrink and store indoors. Always stored on a rack. Adds years to a boats finish and prevents blistering.

-Spray outdrive and prop with a protectant film they use to store aircraft parts.

Next season:

-Check or add oil.

-Add fogging oil to the carb while starting.

Never a problem with an engine or outdrive in over 10 yrs.

I aint saying to do this ; this is just my own ritual.