Attack

I was told by an engine builder to run the engine as cold as possible. He said lower oil temp around 100 would be fine. My old school Friends say you need higher oil temps to get the oil to flow and to evaporate the water in the oil. Would appreciate anyones thoughts on this.

Madmax

Run from this engine builder.......

you have to get the oil temps up over 200 to evaporate condensation. period.

articfriends

iTrader: (1)

My procharged blower motor runs about 100 degrees on water temp gauge,it still gets plenty of oil temp under a load though,even with a large offshore racing oil cooler. As far as cylinder wear ,i have always been under impression a cold running motor would have accelerated cyl wear, not true in a marine application. My old motor(502 gen 6) had no Ridge in cylinders at 200 hours and bearings looked like new also,always ran at 100 degrees +/- 20 water temp ,depending on lk water. I did change oil every 25 hours run time,Smitty
Just reread first post,i wouldn't think it would be possible to even keep your oil temp at 100deg,did you mean water temp?

Fountaineer

This is interesting. The blower motor for my Fountain was built by Teague Custom Marine here in California, supposedly one of the premier builders in the country.

My motor runs extremely cold, with the water temp no more than 100 most of the time and oil temp barely moving off the peg. I'm running the large offshore Teague oil cooler.

When I called Teague to inquire about the low temps, he told me that he likes to run his blower motors this way for longevity. As long as you are not getting condensation in the oil (which I am not--I check all the time) everything will be fine.

I guess he was right because I have over 200 hours on the motor and have not lost a single MPH yet. I do run synthetic oil and change it every 25 hours though.

Attack

One builder said to run an oil thermostat if getting water on the dip stick, but leave the water temp low...

PowerboatsNW

I am running 70 degree water temp and less that 100 oil temp and seem to be having a condensation problem.

paradigm shift

I had trouble with condensate in the cooler winter months here on West coast. Even if I got the oil temp up if I idled around at all I would see condensate in valve covers and oil at times. You all are going to think I am crazy but I installed a PCV valve and my cold weather - cold water temp days of condensation are gone.

This is on a 1071 blower motor. Water temps are low but running oil temps will get to 220 or 230. Without the PCV valve it just never seemed to pull all the condensate out in the cooler times of the year. Cold water temps will cause condensation even with warm oil temps just my .02. You have to get the vapor - condensate out by running hard enough long enough or in my case the PCV valve works.

Just my experience like I said. I also like my oil temp up around 200 depending on where you get your reading.

27 FOUNTAIN

I ran a 509 blower motor for prob 9 years with very little water or oil temps, finnally lost a cam lobe with a 2nd going. The only thing I can attribute this to is a small amount of condensation getting on the freshly squiggied (SP?) cam lobes.Then every time we started the next trip it probably took a little of cam off. Don't know for sure, but the motor ran for a long time with no problems.Rebuilt motor and added a KE oil thermostat, now carry a least 212 at cruise.

Hydrocruiser

I was told oil temps are not an indicator of boiling off condensation as local hot spots around the valves and cylinder wall shoot temp's up to 250*F+.

So thinking you need to get your temps. up that high on a "return gage" is not needed. If you use an oil with good ester content to distribute the water over the entire full 5 qts evenly... even a few ounces of water is spread out or emulsified into micro droplets that burn off quickly. The problem is if you use an oil that repels water then you have pooling taking place and a potential huge problem.

mr_velocity

My 509s never see more than 100 degrees on the water and I need to run WOT for more than 5 minutes to get the oil over 210, that's BEFORE the cooler. I run a large 2 pass oil cooler and 14qt pans. Never had a condensation issue, the motors have over 250 hours on them, compression tested them a couple weeks ago and all holes show 170 psi. For the first 160 hours I ran Red-Line 50wt race and have since switched to Mobile 1.