24' Outlaw with 650hp
06-18-2007, 09:19 AM
#32
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06-19-2007, 02:14 AM
#33
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Guess I just have to add something, here. As you know, I´m totally convinced about the improvements in handling and speed that the 3" lift box have added to my 25OL. However, I was beginning to believe that the 4 1/2" prop to pad dimension that I am running was as high as I should want to go.
Then a buddy of mine with a similarly configured, but longer boat (29 Aerotek - pad bottom, notched transom), who had already fitted a 3" lift box after seeing the success on mine, decided to raise his drive even further. He has gone up from a similar 5" dimension up another 2"!
With only 3" prop to pad, his boat runs even faster, and he says the handling is even better. He runs a TPM 900 motor and is still pulling hard at over 90 mph (also using a labbed 28" Bravo, but on a 1.36 Imco SC drive)
What I´m saying is that two different boat/motor settups really responded well to the Imco box.
I can imagine the 24OL would work good too.
Then a buddy of mine with a similarly configured, but longer boat (29 Aerotek - pad bottom, notched transom), who had already fitted a 3" lift box after seeing the success on mine, decided to raise his drive even further. He has gone up from a similar 5" dimension up another 2"!
With only 3" prop to pad, his boat runs even faster, and he says the handling is even better. He runs a TPM 900 motor and is still pulling hard at over 90 mph (also using a labbed 28" Bravo, but on a 1.36 Imco SC drive)
What I´m saying is that two different boat/motor settups really responded well to the Imco box.
I can imagine the 24OL would work good too.
06-19-2007, 02:48 PM
#34
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Location: EASTON MA.
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i THINK YOUR 27 hull is only 25ft my friends had 89 250 s one had a90 270 same boat hull was only 25ft mine is the real 24ft 240ol not the lake boat 226 which is now a 240. and the 2'' shortie gave me with a carb change alot. I still had the chine walk over 75 to 83 put you got to drive it I hope with the full hdy steering on it will stop altogether. I just order a new B1X DRIVE and going to order the box or the lower shortie nexted.
06-19-2007, 02:50 PM
#35
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Guess I just have to add something, here. As you know, I´m totally convinced about the improvements in handling and speed that the 3" lift box have added to my 25OL. However, I was beginning to believe that the 4 1/2" prop to pad dimension that I am running was as high as I should want to go.
Then a buddy of mine with a similarly configured, but longer boat (29 Aerotek - pad bottom, notched transom), who had already fitted a 3" lift box after seeing the success on mine, decided to raise his drive even further. He has gone up from a similar 5" dimension up another 2"!
With only 3" prop to pad, his boat runs even faster, and he says the handling is even better. He runs a TPM 900 motor and is still pulling hard at over 90 mph (also using a labbed 28" Bravo, but on a 1.36 Imco SC drive)
What I´m saying is that two different boat/motor settups really responded well to the Imco box.
I can imagine the 24OL would work good too.
Then a buddy of mine with a similarly configured, but longer boat (29 Aerotek - pad bottom, notched transom), who had already fitted a 3" lift box after seeing the success on mine, decided to raise his drive even further. He has gone up from a similar 5" dimension up another 2"!
With only 3" prop to pad, his boat runs even faster, and he says the handling is even better. He runs a TPM 900 motor and is still pulling hard at over 90 mph (also using a labbed 28" Bravo, but on a 1.36 Imco SC drive)
What I´m saying is that two different boat/motor settups really responded well to the Imco box.
I can imagine the 24OL would work good too.
06-19-2007, 05:33 PM
#36
the Flightmaster
Platinum Member
Yeah, I assembled the whole drive and motor with the raised front mounts that I had made up and fitted the tailpipes to the CMI´s, and then marked out the new postions on the transom.
The pieces that I cut out with the hole saw I reused to fill the old holes in the transom.
You can´t really see any sign that the old motor lived 3" nearer to the bilge. A high x dimension is a real bonus on a single - the access to the lower parts of the motor, raw water pump, the depthfinder sender and the bilge pump is sooo easy!
@ Smitty. Your problem with cavitation really did surprise me. None of my props show any signs of it. You can throw my boat into a 75 mph turn with the trim still up for speed and it won´t cavitate at all.
The handling is awesome!
The pieces that I cut out with the hole saw I reused to fill the old holes in the transom.
You can´t really see any sign that the old motor lived 3" nearer to the bilge. A high x dimension is a real bonus on a single - the access to the lower parts of the motor, raw water pump, the depthfinder sender and the bilge pump is sooo easy!
@ Smitty. Your problem with cavitation really did surprise me. None of my props show any signs of it. You can throw my boat into a 75 mph turn with the trim still up for speed and it won´t cavitate at all.
The handling is awesome!
06-20-2007, 03:06 PM
#37
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well I will stick with the shortie 2'', I already filled the holes in once when I went to S/M dry ex the pipes were raiosed 4'' from the factory that way my pipes are a foot above the water now. I am going polished this time
with the lower. order the drive mon, 07 b1 x. artie
with the lower. order the drive mon, 07 b1 x. artie
