So it begins...A rebuild thread - Page 2

AIR TIME · 01-26-2009, 11:50 PM

wow that looks like my boat, I am going to but a rear bulkhead all the way up the gunnel and put to side pieces in where they had the plexi, I hope my stringers are good cause I have had 600 to 670hp in that thing from 95 until now and the new motor is a 1050hp

so I need my floor replaced at the back 5 years ago we checked the transom and it was good. since I have been injuried I am having three options two are going to look at it and see if we can and if not it s going to a pro in maine that works at a good price but I want to finish stripping it for them. its such a good hull and it sucks that some stuff wasn't done better but hey I stuffed mine in a 15ft wave and it didn't come a part like the conn SB 24 did and my buddy has one with a 100hp less than me and I beat him in the rough or calm water

. well I was unbolting my gas tank its good to see its not foamed thats real hard and I had made my center floor over in 02 and its fine. no more screws in my floor I will glass blocks of starboard like stuff to the floor or make pockets inbetween the foamed areas to through bolt, I have a bunch of ideas if you want to talk about tighting up these hulls one is my exhaust was raised in 95 4'' I put on a new set of dry stainless marine 4'' setup which I am selling I have to go to 5'' stainless marine for the new motor so if you want a good set up let me know and I have a custom engine hatch which weights about 30lbs not 300lbs its decolite with a pro stock scoop you can see it here at [ Pics of my boat] thread keep me posted I will start one soon for the motor build and glass work the keel looks like balsa or is it wood, thanks art

AIR TIME · 01-27-2009, 12:05 AM

I will also be selling parts off my 509 dart intake with 850 flame art, so if your thinking about making some cheap engine changes you could get 600hp with of my stuff and a cam change. I am going to change my 509 intake to a custm DEAN GELLNER one with the new carb I bought over the summer from him and cam change so we would go from 650hp to 720 to 730. the carb gave me 20 to 25hp extra. oh and if you can buy a imco shortie grab one I wet from 76gps to 83.2gps by putting on the shortie and carb change I ran out of prop at 6000rpm. so I think the boat would have gone 85. but you need full hdy steering

otherwise your fighting chinewalk so fast your arm will want to fall off after a few runs keeping the boat straight. well IF YOU WANT TO TALK about our boats call me I have owned mine since 1990 it was a friends and his wife wanted to pic out a boat together its a 88 and they bought a 90 and were splits vill 93. I will send a PM TO YOU NOW. ART

AIR TIME · 01-27-2009, 12:11 AM

hey something else I will try and post if any one needs to make there bolster taller I added 8'' to mine so when you stand they were half way up your back and if you sat they were under your armpits,, that was great, but now I have some custom made ones that go in out to hold you in. I won't have mine out until mid feb it looks like.

AIR TIME · 01-27-2009, 12:20 AM

hey I plan on glassing in my dash and extending it to the floor so it doesn't sound like its breaking when your in the rough

. I cracked mine in the connor to the right of the steering wheel

and will add steps like in the new boats to put your feet against and glass in panels where you go into the cabin no more plexi there also Iwould like to move the rails to the middle get rid of the rear to update the boat. what do you think.

AIR TIME · 01-27-2009, 12:24 AM

hey I plan on glassing in my dash and extending it to the floor so it doesn't sound like its breaking when your in the rough

. I cracked mine in the connor to the right of the steering wheel

and will add steps like in the new boats to put your feet against and glass in panels where you go into the cabin no more plexi there also Iwould like to move the rails to the middle get rid of the rear to update the boat. what do you think. also I would talk to some glass guys about stringers it looks like they used 2x6 or 2x10 to make them. plywood glassing a few sheets together would be a lot stronger I believe check out audiofn jonsthread on stringer replacement it was good.

c_deezy · 02-02-2009, 08:16 PM

Didn't get a whole lot accomplished this weekend. Cut out the soggy rear boxes. The barn is unheated except when we are out there working so all the water in the wood was frozen! Kind of funny but it also helped getting the wood out because I think the frozen water was all the was holding it together. Foam had a nice half inch of ice on the bottom of it too. Will start cutting out the transom next weekend.

c_deezy · 02-02-2009, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AIR TIME

hey I plan on glassing in my dash and extending it to the floor so it doesn't sound like its breaking when your in the rough

. I cracked mine in the connor to the right of the steering wheel

and will add steps like in the new boats to put your feet against and glass in panels where you go into the cabin no more plexi there also Iwould like to move the rails to the middle get rid of the rear to update the boat. what do you think. also I would talk to some glass guys about stringers it looks like they used 2x6 or 2x10 to make them. plywood glassing a few sheets together would be a lot stronger I believe check out audiofn jonsthread on stringer replacement it was good.

I never really cared for the dash insert, I plan on making an entire new one if time allows. One with the steering wheel tilted forward a bit and a smaller insert panel. Mine is so chewed up is basically junk anyhow and needs replaced. I haven't decided yet what I'm going to do for stringers. I think when I replace the engine stringers I'll probably go with 3 layers of half inch plywood glassed together but may use foam for everything else. I'm thinking about removing the rails as well, mainly because I fell on my port bowrail last summer and put a nice dip in it. You can see it in the pic below, left a nice bruise on the bowrail and a nice bruise on my hip as well!

fleg1 · 02-03-2009, 01:18 PM

Here is what mine looked like.. I had to replace everything up to the cabin bulkhead.. I used 3/4 douglas marine grade plywood to make the transom and stringers.. I sandwiched 2 pieces together with a layer of Bi-axial cloth between them and then screwed it all together with screws every 4"..

fleg1 · 02-03-2009, 01:22 PM

Just a tip for ya.. Cut the fiber glass about a inch above the bottom of the boat on the stringers that way after you dig all the rot out, you will know exactly where to place the replacement stringers, just be sure to bond the stringers to the bottom before glassing them in place!!!

My finished transom!!

c_deezy · 02-03-2009, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fleg1

Here is what mine looked like.. I had to replace everything up to the cabin bulkhead.. I used 3/4 douglas marine grade plywood to make the transom and stringers.. I sandwiched 2 pieces together with a layer of Bi-axial cloth between them and then screwed it all together with screws every 4"..

I have to go at least to the forward bulkhead in front of the gas tank, its dry-rotted too. I haven't pulled the cabin apart yet to see if the stringers that run along the tank run all the way up or stop at the bulkhead. Where did you get your plywood from? There is a place in Toledo I used to get marine grade from but it was $80 a sheet.