Best Model Year
#23
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Location: EASTON MA.
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1988 240 sport 1st year with the bravo 1 drive, 2nd year for that model. and 1992 when they brought it back calling it the outlaw with faring instead of windshield. but in 88 they were the top boat in its class and it has alway taken rough water well and after 16years in the ocean I found some glass issues but hey thats a lot of running time. up to the 2000 I put a lot of hours on it. and slowed down after with motor changes and adding stuff, then getting hurt. but its a tuff lil boat and has beat a lot of custom 24s in my area
#24
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Location: Ontario, OH
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1988 240 sport 1st year with the bravo 1 drive, 2nd year for that model. and 1992 when they brought it back calling it the outlaw with faring instead of windshield. but in 88 they were the top boat in its class and it has alway taken rough water well and after 16years in the ocean I found some glass issues but hey thats a lot of running time. up to the 2000 I put a lot of hours on it. and slowed down after with motor changes and adding stuff, then getting hurt. but its a tuff lil boat and has beat a lot of custom 24s in my area
I beg to differ . Overall looks yes and rough water handling it does pretty good, but build quality
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/b...so-begins.html
#25
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hey theres a 24 superboat a 99 that stuffed a wake and separated the deck from hull go slow, I stuffed my boat in the ocean in a 12 hole blew the windshield off and took so much air out of my engine room my boat started to stall. I got the stress cracks just like my other buddys cig bullit, and another sb24, I seen formulas withstriggers broken fountains with stringers broke, and stress cracks on lots of boats. hey if I built that 24ol from scratch it would have had a full rear bulkhead with a center section that unbolted, a full bulkhead going into the cabin with built in steps to rest your feet on and molded the steering and throttle dash area in place and attached to the floor thats what I working on this spring and the boat would be more solid but I have never lost a run against a 24 with big power in the late to early 90s I kill my friends 550hp super boat, ran a red one with twin obs a 30 blew him away I have had good luck but mantain your boat is a must you can't just wash it and wax it theres screws, bolts that loosen on all boats the only boats I have seen with out a stresscrack is AT, SKATER, SUTPHEN. ands thats it cape cod is a trough place to boat
#26
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hey theres a 24 superboat a 99 that stuffed a wake and separated the deck from hull go slow, I stuffed my boat in the ocean in a 12 hole blew the windshield off and took so much air out of my engine room my boat started to stall. I got the stress cracks just like my other buddys cig bullit, and another sb24, I seen formulas withstriggers broken fountains with stringers broke, and stress cracks on lots of boats. hey if I built that 24ol from scratch it would have had a full rear bulkhead with a center section that unbolted, a full bulkhead going into the cabin with built in steps to rest your feet on and molded the steering and throttle dash area in place and attached to the floor thats what I working on this spring and the boat would be more solid but I have never lost a run against a 24 with big power in the late to early 90s I kill my friends 550hp super boat, ran a red one with twin obs a 30 blew him away I have had good luck but mantain your boat is a must you can't just wash it and wax it theres screws, bolts that loosen on all boats the only boats I have seen with out a stresscrack is AT, SKATER, SUTPHEN. ands thats it cape cod is a trough place to boat
I actually intend to do the same thing, the bulkhead at the rear of the gas tank will go up the sides as will the bulkhead at the front of the gas tank and thus get rid of that stupid tinted wall/sliding door, but it will be cut so that access to the cuddy is not restricted. I also plan to put a drain plug at the bottom of the rear bulkhead, facing the bilge, so that in case water does get up under the gas tank it can be drained out but will also keep any water that may collect in the bilge from backwashing toward the front of the boat out of the bilge. As well as 3/4 inch floors to replace the existing 3/8 inch. I also plan to reconfigure the back seat so that the middle section of the backrest will raise with the engine hatch and the seat will fold forward, to allow easier access to the front of the engine and mainly facilitate easier water pump changes. I'm probably going to raise the X-dim one inch, possibly two. Still haven't decided yet what I'm going to do with the dash. I didn't realize how bad mine actually was structually until I started ripping into it. I will rebuild it, it will crush again!
Last edited by c_deezy; 01-13-2009 at 03:03 PM.