full hyrdraulic steering
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full hyrdraulic steering
IMCO Full Hydraulic Steerting w/ tilt:
Any thing I need to know about installing the steering system for the first time. Any pointers or helpfull hints? Any thing not to do ect. please help. I will be installing it in a few weeks.
thanks
Any thing I need to know about installing the steering system for the first time. Any pointers or helpfull hints? Any thing not to do ect. please help. I will be installing it in a few weeks.
thanks
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Hey there Conneroutlaw... I remember you on BBO and see you over here a lot. Regarding the steering it really depends on your skill level as they are not just a "plug and play". Is it full hydro from helm to rams etc. or? My suggestion if you have never really worked on that stuff then have a professional do it or have someone with you who has done them before, just my .02. You should hit up "Violator"...he builds hydro steering on the side...one of his trades. He did it on his 25 OL. He is a wealth of knowledge regarding that stuff. Good luck.
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steering
Hey there Conneroutlaw... I remember you on BBO and see you over here a lot. Regarding the steering it really depends on your skill level as they are not just a "plug and play". Is it full hydro from helm to rams etc. or? My suggestion if you have never really worked on that stuff then have a professional do it or have someone with you who has done them before, just my .02. You should hit up "Violator"...he builds hydro steering on the side...one of his trades. He did it on his 25 OL. He is a wealth of knowledge regarding that stuff. Good luck.
I won't be doing it. My mechanic will be doing it, he has never done one before. Ther guy that works on my boat on the side is head of the service department. He and his head tech guy are going to do it. They have never put one on. In my area boats like mine are far and few. He is a great mechanice, but some of the high performance stuff is is not current on. I really don't know anyone in this area that has a specialty, in this area, He can do everytrhign else with no problems. I found a race shop who works and builds race car engines, and also workes on high performance boat engines. So any adjustments to my engine, he can do, becasue i have a super charger on it and some extra non factor stuff.
thanks
jj
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your boat
Hey there Conneroutlaw... I remember you on BBO and see you over here a lot. Regarding the steering it really depends on your skill level as they are not just a "plug and play". Is it full hydro from helm to rams etc. or? My suggestion if you have never really worked on that stuff then have a professional do it or have someone with you who has done them before, just my .02. You should hit up "Violator"...he builds hydro steering on the side...one of his trades. He did it on his 25 OL. He is a wealth of knowledge regarding that stuff. Good luck.
[email protected]. What do you have under the hood?
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It's not that hard to do for any mechanic that has reasonable common sense.
Measure 5 times, drill once. And if necessary use some sort of jig to make sure the holes are drilled straight and at 90 degrees to the transom.
I put a full hydro Mayfair system on a boat a couple years ago, first time I had done it and we had no issues or leaks. As long as the IMCO system comes with all the fittings/hoses, etc and a decent set of instructions you should have no problem.
They way I did it was:
Day 1 evening - Mark and drill holes for ram brackets and thru-hulls, then seal with epoxy. Leave sit over night to cure.
Day 2 - Mount fittings and brackets on transom. Seal with 5200 and leave it sit to cure overnight. While that was curing worked on making the hoses, removing old steering system, etc. Make sure your kit comes with the hose fitting tool to put the ends on the hoses. I also used colored electrical tape to mark all of the hoses at both ends. It takes some time to make the hoses with the field replace fittings, if you have them crimped on at the Parker store it saves some hassle (or buy your own crimper like I did). Plumb as much as you can but I didn't touch any of the thru-hull fittings until the next day to keep from disrupting the sealer while it cured. Mount your brackets on the drives.
Day 3 - Install rams, finish plumbing and fill and bleed system.
You dont' have to spread it out over three days, just giving a reference from the first time I did it. I've found that it's better to leave sealers cure overnight if possible, but if you are paying these guys by the hour i doubt you'll want to stretch it over 3 days.
One issue I did run into was with the return line to the reservoir. The hose that came with the kit was a 100R2-6, which is actually a 5/16" ID hose, so I had to get a different barb fitting for the power steering cooler (HP500). At the time I coupled a 3/8 and a 5/16 hose barb together and later replaced the fitting on the cooler after getting the correct fitting from the Parker store.
Measure 5 times, drill once. And if necessary use some sort of jig to make sure the holes are drilled straight and at 90 degrees to the transom.
I put a full hydro Mayfair system on a boat a couple years ago, first time I had done it and we had no issues or leaks. As long as the IMCO system comes with all the fittings/hoses, etc and a decent set of instructions you should have no problem.
They way I did it was:
Day 1 evening - Mark and drill holes for ram brackets and thru-hulls, then seal with epoxy. Leave sit over night to cure.
Day 2 - Mount fittings and brackets on transom. Seal with 5200 and leave it sit to cure overnight. While that was curing worked on making the hoses, removing old steering system, etc. Make sure your kit comes with the hose fitting tool to put the ends on the hoses. I also used colored electrical tape to mark all of the hoses at both ends. It takes some time to make the hoses with the field replace fittings, if you have them crimped on at the Parker store it saves some hassle (or buy your own crimper like I did). Plumb as much as you can but I didn't touch any of the thru-hull fittings until the next day to keep from disrupting the sealer while it cured. Mount your brackets on the drives.
Day 3 - Install rams, finish plumbing and fill and bleed system.
You dont' have to spread it out over three days, just giving a reference from the first time I did it. I've found that it's better to leave sealers cure overnight if possible, but if you are paying these guys by the hour i doubt you'll want to stretch it over 3 days.
One issue I did run into was with the return line to the reservoir. The hose that came with the kit was a 100R2-6, which is actually a 5/16" ID hose, so I had to get a different barb fitting for the power steering cooler (HP500). At the time I coupled a 3/8 and a 5/16 hose barb together and later replaced the fitting on the cooler after getting the correct fitting from the Parker store.
Last edited by c_deezy; 04-12-2012 at 01:37 AM.
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thanks for the insite
It's not that hard to do for any mechanic that has reasonable common sense.
Measure 5 times, drill once. And if necessary use some sort of jig to make sure the holes are drilled straight and at 90 degrees to the transom.
I put a full hydro Mayfair system on a boat a couple years ago, first time I had done it and we had no issues or leaks. As long as the IMCO system comes with all the fittings/hoses, etc and a decent set of instructions you should have no problem.
They way I did it was:
Day 1 evening - Mark and drill holes for ram brackets and thru-hulls, then seal with epoxy. Leave sit over night to cure.
Day 2 - Mount fittings and brackets on transom. Seal with 5200 and leave it sit to cure overnight. While that was curing worked on making the hoses, removing old steering system, etc. Make sure your kit comes with the hose fitting tool to put the ends on the hoses. I also used colored electrical tape to mark all of the hoses at both ends. It takes some time to make the hoses with the field replace fittings, if you have them crimped on at the Parker store it saves some hassle (or buy your own crimper like I did). Plumb as much as you can but I didn't touch any of the thru-hull fittings until the next day to keep from disrupting the sealer while it cured. Mount your brackets on the drives.
Day 3 - Install rams, finish plumbing and fill and bleed system.
You dont' have to spread it out over three days, just giving a reference from the first time I did it. I've found that it's better to leave sealers cure overnight if possible, but if you are paying these guys by the hour i doubt you'll want to stretch it over 3 days.
One issue I did run into was with the return line to the reservoir. The hose that came with the kit was a 100R2-6, which is actually a 5/16" ID hose, so I had to get a different barb fitting for the power steering cooler (HP500). At the time I coupled a 3/8 and a 5/16 hose barb together and later replaced the fitting on the cooler after getting the correct fitting from the Parker store.
Measure 5 times, drill once. And if necessary use some sort of jig to make sure the holes are drilled straight and at 90 degrees to the transom.
I put a full hydro Mayfair system on a boat a couple years ago, first time I had done it and we had no issues or leaks. As long as the IMCO system comes with all the fittings/hoses, etc and a decent set of instructions you should have no problem.
They way I did it was:
Day 1 evening - Mark and drill holes for ram brackets and thru-hulls, then seal with epoxy. Leave sit over night to cure.
Day 2 - Mount fittings and brackets on transom. Seal with 5200 and leave it sit to cure overnight. While that was curing worked on making the hoses, removing old steering system, etc. Make sure your kit comes with the hose fitting tool to put the ends on the hoses. I also used colored electrical tape to mark all of the hoses at both ends. It takes some time to make the hoses with the field replace fittings, if you have them crimped on at the Parker store it saves some hassle (or buy your own crimper like I did). Plumb as much as you can but I didn't touch any of the thru-hull fittings until the next day to keep from disrupting the sealer while it cured. Mount your brackets on the drives.
Day 3 - Install rams, finish plumbing and fill and bleed system.
You dont' have to spread it out over three days, just giving a reference from the first time I did it. I've found that it's better to leave sealers cure overnight if possible, but if you are paying these guys by the hour i doubt you'll want to stretch it over 3 days.
One issue I did run into was with the return line to the reservoir. The hose that came with the kit was a 100R2-6, which is actually a 5/16" ID hose, so I had to get a different barb fitting for the power steering cooler (HP500). At the time I coupled a 3/8 and a 5/16 hose barb together and later replaced the fitting on the cooler after getting the correct fitting from the Parker store.
thank you for the informations, My mechanic is very annul. The salesmen at imco said i will have everything i need and enough hose.
thanks
jj