Prop question / engine issue (long story sorry)
#11
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Thats a lot of boost unless the engine was specifically built for it (lower compression etc). Remember that you can overload an engine at any rpm. It is a complex issue related to fuel octane, compression ratio (and boost), temperature, combustion chamber shape etc but it manifests itself as detonation which is an explosive combustion of the fuel/air mixture rather than the normal burning of that mixture. High speed detonation (5000 rpm certainly qualifies) will ruin an engine in seconds and you will likely never know it happens until you tear the engine apart to see whats wrong. Your prop guy is right to a certain extent in that making the same power at a higher rpm in a more lightly loaded condition will reduce the chance of detonation but it could just as easily cause other problems that are just as devestating.
If you don't know much about the engine build, and you believe it to be stock, then you can certainly do as plowtownmissile suggests and remove the procharger. You could also change pulleys to reduce the boost down to 2-3 psi for a nice performance gain over stock and hopefully a reliability improvement (it is, after all, running with no apperant problems now). It just comes down to how much risk you want to take and how much that 75 mph top end means to you.
Good luck,
Dan
If you don't know much about the engine build, and you believe it to be stock, then you can certainly do as plowtownmissile suggests and remove the procharger. You could also change pulleys to reduce the boost down to 2-3 psi for a nice performance gain over stock and hopefully a reliability improvement (it is, after all, running with no apperant problems now). It just comes down to how much risk you want to take and how much that 75 mph top end means to you.
Good luck,
Dan
thanks for your imput
jj
#12
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I agree with you also. Last year i blew a head gasket and the rpimary reason was that i should of had arp studs in it. After my mechanic opened the engine, he changed things and put better parts in it so that my engine was built exactly like a high performance 502 out the mecr doors and it would handel the stress of the super charger. He rebuilt the engine the way they should of did it from the begining when the super charger was installed. He said the one reason it went as quick as it did (head gasket), was becasue of the lack of arp studs. He changed and fixed it the way it should be. i am going to run it for alittle and see how things go. The original engine was not stock and the new and improved engine is what it is supposed to be when you put a super charger on it
thanks for your imput
jj
thanks for your imput
jj
#13
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Do you have A/F guage and EGT gauges??
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#14
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IMO you should have dynoed that motor when it was out of the boat, then you would have gotten some very valuable information about what the motor needs to be in tune, RPM's, ETC, it would have been $$$ very well spent.
Running a boosted engine and have it sputtering at WOT usually leads to bad things REALLY quick. if i was going to guess it was lean before you blew the head gasket and thats why the gasket went before. you could have shut the engine off right as it was sputtering and done a plug check to see if it was lean or rich.
when they pulled your motor apart how did all of the main bearings look in it? that could also give you an idea of its state of tune before blowing a gasket, how did the pistons look, any signs of detonation? I hope you have a fuel pressure gauge on your dash, and a way to read A/F ratio, or at least a way to be able to data log fuel pressure and A/F or you are going to end up with some very expensive ashtrays in a very short time.
I'm not trying to be mean here, but from reading your past posts of the issues you keep having with this boat, and hearing about your mechanic i think you both are in over your heads on this, i would really search for someone with proven experience on procharged marine engines and get that boat to them ASAP and have them tune it and get it running properly for you or you can end up another several $k deep into putting it back together again. once they get that boat all tuned for you it will be a very fun boat for you. its kinda like the old saying, pay me now or pay me later, but it usually costs a lot more later!
good luck man and i hope you have a good summer!
Running a boosted engine and have it sputtering at WOT usually leads to bad things REALLY quick. if i was going to guess it was lean before you blew the head gasket and thats why the gasket went before. you could have shut the engine off right as it was sputtering and done a plug check to see if it was lean or rich.
when they pulled your motor apart how did all of the main bearings look in it? that could also give you an idea of its state of tune before blowing a gasket, how did the pistons look, any signs of detonation? I hope you have a fuel pressure gauge on your dash, and a way to read A/F ratio, or at least a way to be able to data log fuel pressure and A/F or you are going to end up with some very expensive ashtrays in a very short time.
I'm not trying to be mean here, but from reading your past posts of the issues you keep having with this boat, and hearing about your mechanic i think you both are in over your heads on this, i would really search for someone with proven experience on procharged marine engines and get that boat to them ASAP and have them tune it and get it running properly for you or you can end up another several $k deep into putting it back together again. once they get that boat all tuned for you it will be a very fun boat for you. its kinda like the old saying, pay me now or pay me later, but it usually costs a lot more later!
good luck man and i hope you have a good summer!