25 outlaw guys, trailer advice....
03-06-2014, 01:46 PM
#1
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25 outlaw guys, trailer advice....
I have a steel tandem axel eagle trailer that came with the boat. The trailer is starting to rust out, I am looking to replace it with an aluminum trailer. Just curious to see what brand aluminum trailers you guys are running. I have roadking and loadrite trailer dealers within 30 miles from home. I went to look at the roadkings yesterday they look well built, however the bunk setup is different from my eagle. The bunks are adjustable in and out and forward to back. I took a measurement from the highest point on the bunk to the top of the rear crossmember and got a measurement of 14". I know as you move the bunks closer together the boat would be raised, from what I could tell on my boat from the location where I thought the bunk should be placed I am damn close to 14" to the bottom of my hull, I just want to make sure I won't have a clearance issue.
Also what is the load capacity and brake setup of your trailers? The roadkings I looked at had a load capacity of 6200 and 7400. The trailers were the same physical size the 7400 had bigger axels and 6 lug instead of 5 lug, both trailers had surge brakes on only the forward axel. I have not been to see the loadrite trailers yet, any input would be helpful.
As always thanks guys!
Derek.
Also what is the load capacity and brake setup of your trailers? The roadkings I looked at had a load capacity of 6200 and 7400. The trailers were the same physical size the 7400 had bigger axels and 6 lug instead of 5 lug, both trailers had surge brakes on only the forward axel. I have not been to see the loadrite trailers yet, any input would be helpful.
As always thanks guys!
Derek.
03-10-2014, 04:32 PM
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I made a few more calls today on trailers this is what I got so far....
Roadking tandem, aluminum bunk with front center bunks and single disc brake, leaf spring...6200lb Cary capacity $3700
Local pickup. Same brand 7400lb $4200.
Venture tandem aluminum bunk, No front center bunks, single disc brake, leaf spring. 7225lb $3600 local pick up.
Nextrail tandem aluminum bunk (custom made for the boat) with front center bunks, single disc brake, 7000lb $3700 to my door from Ocala FL.
LoadRite tandem aluminum bunk, No front center bunk, single disc brake, torsion axles, 8000lb $4800 local pick up
Does anyone else have anything to say about the trailers mentioned above or perhaps a brand that I should look into?
Thanks
Derek.
Roadking tandem, aluminum bunk with front center bunks and single disc brake, leaf spring...6200lb Cary capacity $3700
Local pickup. Same brand 7400lb $4200.
Venture tandem aluminum bunk, No front center bunks, single disc brake, leaf spring. 7225lb $3600 local pick up.
Nextrail tandem aluminum bunk (custom made for the boat) with front center bunks, single disc brake, 7000lb $3700 to my door from Ocala FL.
LoadRite tandem aluminum bunk, No front center bunk, single disc brake, torsion axles, 8000lb $4800 local pick up
Does anyone else have anything to say about the trailers mentioned above or perhaps a brand that I should look into?
Thanks
Derek.
Last edited by bajaboy217; 03-10-2014 at 04:38 PM.
03-10-2014, 05:22 PM
#5
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You can have them swap out the vertical bunks for additional height or lowering the boat. Notice the trailers with the V-notch in the cross members will be better for your 24* hull.
It's much better to have those bunks actually resting on the trailer cross members than suspended by the bolts. Even cutting some support wood to go between the large bunks down to support the weight the trailer cross members would be better.
If going with a new trailer, I would definitely go with EoH brakes on both axles. It's worth every penny over a surge brake setup.
DO NOT skimp on the capacity. Your boat will be every bit of 7000 lbs. on the trailer full of fuel and gear. A ~7500 lbs. rating would be the minimum I would buy.
Remember, the front axle takes more abuse, especially when cresting the top of the ramp, and transitioning to different terrains when towing. When cresting the top of the ramp, ALL of the boat's weight is on the front axle. That's when bent axles/spindles happens.
LED lights will give you less headaches.
Almost ALL of the trailer manufacturers have axles with Chinese made bearings in them. (Even Myco) The USA Made Timken Bearings are MUCH better quality, You may think about this swap before you put a boat on it. The Timken bearings will cost you a couple hundred bucks if that.
Most of the aluminum bolt together bunk trailers are in the same build category. SS hardware will set them apart. Quality of lights and brakes will set them apart.
The BIGGEST difference will be the LENGTH of the frame. You want those wood bunks supported with frame and cross members ALL the way to the transom, not cut short the way those trailers above appear.
Take a look at this thread for better bow stands:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...i-can-get.html
You want at least 15" wheels with the highest rated tires you can get. E-load rated ideal, D-load rated minimum.
If you can get 16" LT tires in E-load rating, that would be even better. There are many, many, (too many) threads on this topic alone.
Last, the vertical bunk trailers will not load as well as your cradle support Eagle trailer that you have now. To overcome, you definitely want the V-bunks under the forward portion of the hull, and a second set in the back would be even better. The more bunks you have that force the boat into the center of the trailer as you come up out of the water the better.
It's much better to have those bunks actually resting on the trailer cross members than suspended by the bolts. Even cutting some support wood to go between the large bunks down to support the weight the trailer cross members would be better.
If going with a new trailer, I would definitely go with EoH brakes on both axles. It's worth every penny over a surge brake setup.
DO NOT skimp on the capacity. Your boat will be every bit of 7000 lbs. on the trailer full of fuel and gear. A ~7500 lbs. rating would be the minimum I would buy.
Remember, the front axle takes more abuse, especially when cresting the top of the ramp, and transitioning to different terrains when towing. When cresting the top of the ramp, ALL of the boat's weight is on the front axle. That's when bent axles/spindles happens.
LED lights will give you less headaches.
Almost ALL of the trailer manufacturers have axles with Chinese made bearings in them. (Even Myco) The USA Made Timken Bearings are MUCH better quality, You may think about this swap before you put a boat on it. The Timken bearings will cost you a couple hundred bucks if that.
Most of the aluminum bolt together bunk trailers are in the same build category. SS hardware will set them apart. Quality of lights and brakes will set them apart.
The BIGGEST difference will be the LENGTH of the frame. You want those wood bunks supported with frame and cross members ALL the way to the transom, not cut short the way those trailers above appear.
Take a look at this thread for better bow stands:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...i-can-get.html
You want at least 15" wheels with the highest rated tires you can get. E-load rated ideal, D-load rated minimum.
If you can get 16" LT tires in E-load rating, that would be even better. There are many, many, (too many) threads on this topic alone.
Last, the vertical bunk trailers will not load as well as your cradle support Eagle trailer that you have now. To overcome, you definitely want the V-bunks under the forward portion of the hull, and a second set in the back would be even better. The more bunks you have that force the boat into the center of the trailer as you come up out of the water the better.
03-11-2014, 05:58 PM
#7
Charter Member
The torsions will transfer the weight from 1 axle to the other under the conditions Sydwayz mentioned. Leaf springs will distribute the weight evenly between the axles under those same conditions. My previous boats torsion trailer would always lift 1 axle off the ground just going over the curb. Thats putting all the weight on the remaining axle. My current leaf spring trailer axles simple roll over that same curb with the weight equally split between axles.
Torsions are more level sensitive. Leafs aren't effected if trailer not level.
As mentioned earlier, EOH is the cats meow.
With that said, my torsion trailer was QUIET! All you heard was the humming of the tires. If I were to buy another trailer, it'd still be a leaf spring.
Torsions are more level sensitive. Leafs aren't effected if trailer not level.
As mentioned earlier, EOH is the cats meow.
With that said, my torsion trailer was QUIET! All you heard was the humming of the tires. If I were to buy another trailer, it'd still be a leaf spring.
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Last edited by US1 Fountain; 03-11-2014 at 06:01 PM.
03-11-2014, 08:54 PM
#8
Get brakes on both axles. You can never have enough braking power. Spend the extra money...you will see how the money spent works when you have to stop hard due to an a$$hat cutting you off or turning out in front of you...it will happen. I have 6 wheel discs on mine..
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03-16-2014, 07:14 PM
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I went with a Wesco. Paid another $100 to have them "wrap" the frame rails where they meet the tongue. Well worth it, and stronger. Look at a Venture, and you'll see what I mean. Happy overall, but wasn't thrilled with galvanized crossmembers. I've seen some with aluminum crossmembers and axles.
All my hardware is stainless. Went with aluminum rims and radials. Tows great behind a Grand Cherokee. With gas, food, guns, beer, and babes..... You'll be near the 7000 lb mark.
Great trailer overall, easy to service wiring, brake lines, etc. Single axle brakes are more than sufficient, IMO. Make sure they cut your bunks at the correct complimentary deadrise angle (24 deg I'm guessing).
All my hardware is stainless. Went with aluminum rims and radials. Tows great behind a Grand Cherokee. With gas, food, guns, beer, and babes..... You'll be near the 7000 lb mark.
Great trailer overall, easy to service wiring, brake lines, etc. Single axle brakes are more than sufficient, IMO. Make sure they cut your bunks at the correct complimentary deadrise angle (24 deg I'm guessing).
