Stinger 222 - Where I'm up to now...
#11
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The side panels fit fine. It's tight but they don't touch or rub on the manifolds, I just won't plan on sticking my arm down there. Besides, it's dead easy to get them in and out so why try? I still have yet to figure out how the back pads / panels stay on at speed? I'm debating whether or not to run a velcro strip along the outer edges or something? I'd hate to lose one over the side! They fit alright but I never trust anything not strapped down.
I'm going to try swapping the solenoid on the pump up for down and see if that works.
Cheers!
John
I'm going to try swapping the solenoid on the pump up for down and see if that works.
Cheers!
John
#13
Mine also has some heavy duty velcro strips on the sides....i want to replace it but cant find the stuff!!! Its not the typical shagy carpet stuff but some hard plastic "nubs" on both strips that interlock to each other...anyone have ideas?
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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#14
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I'm going to start looking for velcro. If I find anything like you've described, I'll let you know too.
I fixed the drive trim problem (sort-of). The trim switch which I disconnected just needed the signal wire put to power. Only problem is now the trailer switch works without the need to hold the trim in as well. But it works!
I'm not 100% confident on these ear muffs for water input you put on drives. Anyone have any other ways? Reason I ask is I'm only running the raw-water pump and not the circ pump as well. I don't want to over stress it.
I fixed the drive trim problem (sort-of). The trim switch which I disconnected just needed the signal wire put to power. Only problem is now the trailer switch works without the need to hold the trim in as well. But it works!
I'm not 100% confident on these ear muffs for water input you put on drives. Anyone have any other ways? Reason I ask is I'm only running the raw-water pump and not the circ pump as well. I don't want to over stress it.
#15
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Sweet!
That's a lot of juice for that boat. I haven't read everything, but if you add k-planes you'll be safer.'
Btw... the trailer switch works in tandem with the up switch for trim. You need to press both to get the drive to go up.
Happy hunting!
That's a lot of juice for that boat. I haven't read everything, but if you add k-planes you'll be safer.'
Btw... the trailer switch works in tandem with the up switch for trim. You need to press both to get the drive to go up.
Happy hunting!
#16
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Well, she's up and running again. Why oh why did I buy MSD? Had the whole ignition set up perfectly, only to be let down by the ign box / coil. Had the MSD HVC NASCAR set up in there and couldn't get the stupid thing running. Swapped it out for my old spare Crane HI-6N out of my old race boat and she fired straight away! Why did I ever bother with the MSD ignition?
Now, I've decided to try and find a Crane HI-6M and have done with it. I'm not confident I can get the advance curve right with the 6N and my distributor.
The exhaust leaks at the tips on the inside of the transom, the dash mouted fuel pressure gauge doesn't work, the drive trim still only goes up on the trailer switch and down on the trim switch but that's boating isn't it! It wouldn't be fun without a challenge or 20!!
I'm also going to make up a large one-piece fibreglass hatch / cover for the entire back section with no padding and a molded in scoop so if I ever decide to race it in production class or anything, I won't have to worry. Now all I have to do is teach myself how to fibreglass!
Now, I've decided to try and find a Crane HI-6M and have done with it. I'm not confident I can get the advance curve right with the 6N and my distributor.
The exhaust leaks at the tips on the inside of the transom, the dash mouted fuel pressure gauge doesn't work, the drive trim still only goes up on the trailer switch and down on the trim switch but that's boating isn't it! It wouldn't be fun without a challenge or 20!!
I'm also going to make up a large one-piece fibreglass hatch / cover for the entire back section with no padding and a molded in scoop so if I ever decide to race it in production class or anything, I won't have to worry. Now all I have to do is teach myself how to fibreglass!
#17
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looks great its been a long time since i posted on here but still working on my 222 also just about done ,just need a helm now. IT REALLY SUCKS to put so much into a 222 stinger not a hole lot of room once you put a intercooler k planes ,pumps fuel reg. steering bottle ect in the back wraped around a big block with headers trust me it sucks. lol
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looks great its been a long time since i posted on here but still working on my 222 also just about done ,just need a helm now. IT REALLY SUCKS to put so much into a 222 stinger not a hole lot of room once you put a intercooler k planes ,pumps fuel reg. steering bottle ect in the back wraped around a big block with headers trust me it sucks. lol
Anyway, here's one for the brains trust:
I don't have an electric hatch actuator / lift so I've made up a bracket set to fit a gas strut in there. Now, I have to figure out a neat and simple way to keep the hatch closed. Any idea's???
I still haven't had any luck on the velcro either. Damn Google! Anyone know of any supplier up there I may be able to order online from?
#19
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Stinger 222 speeds
I have a 1987 222 bbc factory best i have ever seen is 65mph gps I want 78mph all day gps I think a 500efi will do it.any body have good acurate speeds for this boat please tell me horse power and prop you are use
#20
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If you want to do 78mph all day, first things first, get a Bravo 1 or XR to handle it. Get a hydraulic steering kit too, you'll need it, trust me!
To hit 75-80 mph, HP dependant and B1 gear ratio dependant, you'll need a 24 - 26 pitch prop. I run a Mirage Plus 25P with 1.5 gears, standard lower and a 4.5" X-Dimension. When I get it back in the water with the new cam and carb, it will do 85 - 90 mph (I hope). The previous owner once had a supercharged 502 (stock, carbed - low boost blower) motor in this boat with the Alpha 1 on it and said it went 70+ easy but never had a GPS Speedo. I think he ran a 32P Bravo 4 blade with the 1.82 Alpha gears.
I have a 24P Bravo I'm yet to try but I'll let you know which one's better, the 25P Mirage+ or the B1.
Like I tell everyone: Post Pics, we love to see them!
To hit 75-80 mph, HP dependant and B1 gear ratio dependant, you'll need a 24 - 26 pitch prop. I run a Mirage Plus 25P with 1.5 gears, standard lower and a 4.5" X-Dimension. When I get it back in the water with the new cam and carb, it will do 85 - 90 mph (I hope). The previous owner once had a supercharged 502 (stock, carbed - low boost blower) motor in this boat with the Alpha 1 on it and said it went 70+ easy but never had a GPS Speedo. I think he ran a 32P Bravo 4 blade with the 1.82 Alpha gears.
I have a 24P Bravo I'm yet to try but I'll let you know which one's better, the 25P Mirage+ or the B1.
Like I tell everyone: Post Pics, we love to see them!