Engine swap...HELP...
#31
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It looks like I'm going to be better off replacing the complete transom. I've noticed an outward bow in the outside surface of the transom, so there could be some swelling and / or delamination going on in there.
So, for now it's going to be a dry run, fitting the transom shields and working out the engine mounting. Work out where everything will fit on the transom and then do the full transom and entire engine bay.
A couple of questions:
As for the new engine cross-member. I think that I'll reproduce something like the original cross-member. Each engine and box, (wet) weigh almost 600kg. So what gauge metal would you guys suggest.
When it comes to the transom, the floor that's obviously sitting on the stringers, will have to come out. I presume this is adding strength around the cross-member mounting but is it structural after that? I'm thinking of removing it all, from the transom up to the cross-member.
So, for now it's going to be a dry run, fitting the transom shields and working out the engine mounting. Work out where everything will fit on the transom and then do the full transom and entire engine bay.
A couple of questions:
As for the new engine cross-member. I think that I'll reproduce something like the original cross-member. Each engine and box, (wet) weigh almost 600kg. So what gauge metal would you guys suggest.
When it comes to the transom, the floor that's obviously sitting on the stringers, will have to come out. I presume this is adding strength around the cross-member mounting but is it structural after that? I'm thinking of removing it all, from the transom up to the cross-member.
#32
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first question you asked 3 years ago was what do you all think of engine-drive combo. a buncha people chimed in with "you don't cut a transom to convert to a 30 year old drive set-up". nobody mentioned the motors. the 6.5 GM is the same approx size as a big block. same weight. sits on the same mounts. same flywheel housing bolt pattern. similar RPM range. why then are there NO 6.5 diesels in boats? the 6.5's only realistic use in a marine environment is as a mooring anchor. they don't hold up to heavy loads for extended periods of time.
#33
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first question you asked 3 years ago was what do you all think of engine-drive combo. a buncha people chimed in with "you don't cut a transom to convert to a 30 year old drive set-up". nobody mentioned the motors. the 6.5 GM is the same approx size as a big block. same weight. sits on the same mounts. same flywheel housing bolt pattern. similar RPM range. why then are there NO 6.5 diesels in boats? the 6.5's only realistic use in a marine environment is as a mooring anchor. they don't hold up to heavy loads for extended periods of time.
PS. from 13 September 2010 to 17 March 2013, = 2 years 6 months (Not 3 Years). I can only presume that the rest of your post is as accurate.
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Update......
I drilled the transom yesterday, to check for rot. 6 1/4 holes across the transom, just below the lower gimble bolt holes. All looked like a brown mush. It looked wet but when I rubbed it between my fingers it just fell apart. I cut out the shape of the new hole, for the TRS and the wood didn't look too bad but it was black in places and at the bottom of the hole the wood was "Furry" (looking).
So I guess it's a new transom.
The inner transom shield hits the outer step in the engine bay, so I will need to reshape that when it comes to fitting the transom and the stringers. They don't really look like "Stringers" though. They look like 1/2 to 3/4 ply, that comes vertically from the bottom and the the same going horizontal to the side, anyone know why this is? I'm guessing that the horizontals are structural also?
I'll fit the other gimble and make supports for the bolts that don't go through the transom, offer in the engines and plan where everything will go, then fit the new transom. Unless anyone can suggest a better way to go?
Thanks.
Peter
I drilled the transom yesterday, to check for rot. 6 1/4 holes across the transom, just below the lower gimble bolt holes. All looked like a brown mush. It looked wet but when I rubbed it between my fingers it just fell apart. I cut out the shape of the new hole, for the TRS and the wood didn't look too bad but it was black in places and at the bottom of the hole the wood was "Furry" (looking).
So I guess it's a new transom.
The inner transom shield hits the outer step in the engine bay, so I will need to reshape that when it comes to fitting the transom and the stringers. They don't really look like "Stringers" though. They look like 1/2 to 3/4 ply, that comes vertically from the bottom and the the same going horizontal to the side, anyone know why this is? I'm guessing that the horizontals are structural also?
I'll fit the other gimble and make supports for the bolts that don't go through the transom, offer in the engines and plan where everything will go, then fit the new transom. Unless anyone can suggest a better way to go?
Thanks.
Peter