endeavor1

iTrader: (3)

I run the same oil and have a couple six packs of it sittng in the garage.

For drive oil, I run Bravo Shop oil by NEO.

Hematite

I used to run Valvoline Racing 40W in my Mercruiser powered Century many years ago. After looking in th Mercury engine manual for the 6.2 that I have, they still recommend straight 40W for temps over 50 degrees. Also acceptable is the 25-40 Merc blend. Since I have no intentions of taking the boat out below 50 degrees, the 40W straight oil seems the better choice. That Valvoline VR-1 oil looks really good.

chevytrucks94

Ok changed my mind again lol going 2 run rotella t 15 40 there are way more people running this in marine applications than I realized. I also run this in my duramax and have been happy with it there. Now I know zinc is important is there enough zinc in this off the shelf to b safe or should there b an additive with it

soldier4402

Ive used Castrol but never thought highly of the stuff. USe the HP quick silver stuff, its blue and comes in a greay bottle, yellow lable I think, I just bought 6 qts off of Gander Mountain.com It was 10 bucks and free shipping.

IF you all havent tried ganermountain.com for boating items, they do have some descent stuff. They have the same stuff as west marine and its cheaper, and shipping is always free on boating stuff.

pqjack

over the years,i've rebuilt over a thousand motorcycle engines,mostly harleys...i attended seminars by mobil(esso),amsoil,kendall,etc...we specialise in high performance engines,having held a couple of records (canada's fastest gas sportster),so i think i can draw SOME conclusions about oil,from my own experience
1-some additive packages are better than others...usually goes with the price
2-all additive packages do NOT mix with one another,except in case of emergency
3-if you mix different oils,the result will be as good (or bad) as the cheapest oil in the mix
4-cheap oil WILL make a difference in the long term,like accelerated wear,among other things
5-we DID see a difference in top end life on most bikes with high quality oils,compared to castrol,among other brands
those are the results i found in the 35 years i've been rebuilding engines....i'll stand by them
i use amsoil in ALL combustion engines i own
jack
HDR performance

ThisIsLivin

+1

My lawn mower is over 27 years old, still runs like new, still original spark plug. I've used Mobil 1 than Amsoil for the last 15 years, I change the oil maybe every other season. I keep my vehicles until they have at least 250k on them and the compression still checks like new. Oil pressure is constant before and after an oil change. In the end Amsoil is cheaper.

soldier4402

all do respect bike engines are a little different than car engines. as far as use and such.

pqjack

agreed,but number1 thru 4 apply to ANY engine,and number 5 shows the difference good quality oil can make.
while you can get away with mixing oils in your 1951 farmall tractor,i personnaly wouldn't do it in my '10 turbo-diesel,my 113 cu.in. HD,or my BBC/whippled boat

soldier4402

agreed. But I think the biggest keys is actually keeping and changing oil in an engine, and using the correct weight. Beyond that unless your talking some seriously high performance stuff, you would have a hard time convincing me or providing proof that some of this weird expensive oil does a better job.

sleev-les

Does anyone use Royal Purple? I use it for my bike and used to use it in my Mustangs (sold my performance cars). When I saw they had a marine line, I picked up some drive and engine oil and use it for the boat.