Question on trailer brake conversion
#23
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Their best kits come with cats . The cheaper Kodiac kits come with dogs and last accordingly . They have a kit for everyone's wallet . Sorry you had bad luck with yours .
#26
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ok got the kodiak kit and it was pretty straight forward, instructions suck, they dont even come with them, had to print. But either way pretty simple.
But one issue. The metal brake lines come from the acuator all the way to the axle where it meets a rubber brake line about 12inches long, the end that goes into the old drum or now the caliper is a male end. The caliper hole looks to be about 3/8, the male end on the rubber hose starts at 3/8 for like the first 1/8 of an inche its smooth, then turns into threads and widens out and does not fit in the hole.
I called etrailer to see if they have brakes lines in the rubber that would fit, they seemed confused. Tonight heading to napa to see if they have an adapter that will fit the old male end of the rubber hose into the caliper.
The trailer is a 91, and it seems they used a bigger male end on the rubber tube that went into the drum, then what needs to go into caliper. Any advice, anybody know what im talking about
But one issue. The metal brake lines come from the acuator all the way to the axle where it meets a rubber brake line about 12inches long, the end that goes into the old drum or now the caliper is a male end. The caliper hole looks to be about 3/8, the male end on the rubber hose starts at 3/8 for like the first 1/8 of an inche its smooth, then turns into threads and widens out and does not fit in the hole.
I called etrailer to see if they have brakes lines in the rubber that would fit, they seemed confused. Tonight heading to napa to see if they have an adapter that will fit the old male end of the rubber hose into the caliper.
The trailer is a 91, and it seems they used a bigger male end on the rubber tube that went into the drum, then what needs to go into caliper. Any advice, anybody know what im talking about
#27
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Something to check into, if you are using your old DRUM brake surge tongue, the master cylinder is different, I believe it's all about the residual line pressure, when we used a drum brake master cyl at work for a disk brake set up, we would have to take the master cyl apart and knock out a disc inside it, otherwise your discs would "drag" more. Just a bit of info if nothing else check into it or maybe someone will chime in and confirm this.
#29
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ok got the brake lines figured.
Now what exactly has to be punctured and where? Im guessing the end that points towards the rear. kodiak says its diaphram. try to see what exactly I am looking for.
Now what exactly has to be punctured and where? Im guessing the end that points towards the rear. kodiak says its diaphram. try to see what exactly I am looking for.
#30
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If you are re-using your drum brake master cylinder you have to pull the residual valve out of the master cylinder.
Depends on who manufactured your surge actuator how to go about doing it. But usually it's just a matter of draining the master cylinder, pulling out the piston and removing the residual valve. Reassemble. Pretty simple.
For example:
http://www.championtrailers.com/remo...dual_valve.htm
You also need a reverse lock out solenoid for disc brakes if you didn't already have one. Drums will slip in reverse, discs will not.
Depends on who manufactured your surge actuator how to go about doing it. But usually it's just a matter of draining the master cylinder, pulling out the piston and removing the residual valve. Reassemble. Pretty simple.
For example:
http://www.championtrailers.com/remo...dual_valve.htm
You also need a reverse lock out solenoid for disc brakes if you didn't already have one. Drums will slip in reverse, discs will not.