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how much torch heat can a block take without breaking

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Old 05-26-2013, 10:56 AM
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Default how much torch heat can a block take without breaking

I have a starter bolt that is broken off in the block.got a hole drilled through the boat with a left hand bit and have been spraying it with penetrating oil. Hit the end of it with a hammer. Trying to turn it out with an extractor. Still froze up.going to try to heat the block up next with a torch. Should I use MAPP gas or just propane. How much heat can the block take?
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:59 PM
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You can try propane but I doubt you will heat it up very much. Too much material there. MAPP might work. I would use an oxy/act torch, but not with eng still in boat.

Many years ago, I worked in a muffler shop. We would routinely have to remove rusted studs from exh manifolds. Using an oxy/act torch, we would heat the area of the manifold where the stud screwed in until it was glowing bright red and studs would always come right out.

A couple of side notes:
Starting to sound like that bolt bottomed-out. That would explain why both bolts broke-off. The other bolt was doing all the clamping and when it broke, the remaining bolt snapped immediately after since it was not able to clamp at all.

If you do break the easy-out off, don't try drilling it out. Best to smack it with a punch. They shatter fairly easy since they are so hard..

If all else fails, you can always drill it out and install a heli-coil. You'll definitely want eng out if you get to that point.
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:14 PM
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1: drill hole ALL the way thru bolt (can be small diameter).
2: spray penetrating oil THRU the hole to get it behind the bolt.
3: Find a correctly sized flat washer for the bolt, and WELD the washer onto the bolt thru the washer hole. Weld it good and solid.
4: Make sure to chip any scale off and make certain that the weld is good.
5: Now, weld a nut onto the washer. Weld it good. Let it cool. Put a wrench on it and unscrew it.

What you've done is, first you get lube behind the dry threads.
Then you heat the bolt up a lot by welding it, and this causes it to expand with the lube there, potentially breaking any adhesions.
Then it cools, and you have a good "head" on the "bolt" to put a wrench on it.

You're not going to hurt the block with the heat from welding. You also aren't going to catch your boat on fire like you might with the torch.

MC
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mcollinstn
1: drill hole ALL the way thru bolt (can be small diameter).
2: spray penetrating oil THRU the hole to get it behind the bolt.
3: Find a correctly sized flat washer for the bolt, and WELD the washer onto the bolt thru the washer hole. Weld it good and solid.
4: Make sure to chip any scale off and make certain that the weld is good.
5: Now, weld a nut onto the washer. Weld it good. Let it cool. Put a wrench on it and unscrew it.

What you've done is, first you get lube behind the dry threads.
Then you heat the bolt up a lot by welding it, and this causes it to expand with the lube there, potentially breaking any adhesions.
Then it cools, and you have a good "head" on the "bolt" to put a wrench on it.

You're not going to hurt the block with the heat from welding. You also aren't going to catch your boat on fire like you might with the torch.

MC
So you are saying to do that in the boat, upside down ,behind the stringer. I wish I had your talent

Last edited by motor; 05-27-2013 at 06:42 PM.
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