CDN 1

Guys what are you guys Using for a Top Of the Line Marine Starting and Deep cycle Battery?
They Never seem to last and This will be 3rd set every few Years,
Cranking over some Large CI.s so need quality Battery Will Buy Pair.
Thanks for Help.

Knot 4 Me

Interstate. Never had one fail. Replace them every 5th season just for peace of mind even though they are still going strong. I use the 24M-XHD for cranking.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/c...ineStarting|3|

mr3dman

+1

johnny b good

I'm on the start of my 6th boating season with (2) Vita plate group 24s for starting 502 mpi mags and (1) Deca group 27 deep cycle house battery.

commandersander

iTrader: (8)

I use blue optima agm. Don't need to be vented, nothing to leak.

jasonmd2

iTrader: (4)

Deka 1231MF. Supposed to be a bad azz battery...haven't had any problem yet, but I did just get my boat back up and running a couple weeks ago, lol.

This is how I remember the model number, 12v group 31 Mutha F@cker!!

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

interstate group 27's i think! but they were 10 yrs old before i replaced them..i never took them out of the boat in the winter and nmaybe charged them 2 times in 10 years..

mcollinstn

I've had Douglas, Interstate, Exide, Deka, and a slew of parts house batteries and Die Hards.
I've had "Marine" batteries and "car" batteries, and deep cycle and AGMs and Gel batteries. I've had Odyssey batteries and Optima batteries.

Of the above group of batteries, the ONLY one that I would rank "truly superior" is the Odyssey battery.

Here's the deal. Unless your battery will see SEVERE vibration and SEVERE impact, just about any "upper tier" battery will work just great on your boat.

If you plan on routinely running a battery below 10 volts, then you are asking a LOT of the battery and will see shortened lifespan.
If you plan to use a smart disconnect or monitor your voltage to NOT run your batteries below 10 volts, then a "starter battery" is just fine.

Here's how to make your batteries last.
1) Keep them full of distilled water, and never let the plates get exposed to air.
2) Don't discharge them below 10 volts.
3) Charge them with a SMART 3-stage electronic charger, and do not ever overcharge them. Remember that battery temps above 110 degrees requires that you lower the voltage "float" setting to prevent overcharging.

I like regular UN-sealed batteries for boats, so you can keep tabs on the electrolyte level.
I like chargers that include a temperature compensation function built into them.

I had a brutal battery-killing boat. Diesel Sea Ray express. It used 7 batteries strapped parallel into 3 circuits. It had a 50 Amp 3-bank ferroresonant charger. It had battery isolators, and all of the stuff you'd outfit it with to handle caring for the batteries.

I went thru new batteries every other season. The batteries needed water added every 3 weeks. I even installed a windshield washer reservoir and pump to use to add water thru a hose instead of jugs and such.

I bought high dollar batteries, and cheap batteries, and did everything I could think of.

and then I put in a Newmar electronic charger with 3 separate temperature probes.
ALL PROBLEM SOLVED.

Same boat, same everything, new charger with temp compensation.
The current batteries have been in the boat since May 2001. They are still hot as a firecracker and I have added water once (in 2007).
They are not mega dollar batteries, they are not deep cycle batteries, they are not marine batteries.

They are Auto Zone Gold car batteries. Group 27. Not sealed.

Same thing occurred with my Formula. It ate batteries. I replaced the Pro Mariner ferroresonant charger with a Pro Mariner Flyback Electronic charger and all of its problems also went away.

So..... your best battery option is to get a great onboard charger. Your batteries will thank you, regardless of which ones you get.

MC

NightHawk

There's no single best choice for everyone.

If you truely have a difficult engine for your starter to turn over due to compression then a large flooded battery that provides more surge amperage (CCA) is called for. Any given starter will draw more current the slower it turns. The problem is that large high CCA wet cells don't have a very long life span. Their thin plates easily sulphate regardless of brand and they are easily broken or damaged in rough water or by using them even in a mild deep cycle application. If you need them you need them, just don't expect them to last but a few years at best.

High CCA flooded batteries are not the best choice for modern EFI engines with stock compressions. Those engines start easily and don't need the compromises that come with those batteries and you would be better off with any brand of AGM technology.

So the answer is, it depends on your exact engine requirements.

Also, regardless of battery type or brand a good smart charger will always extend their lifespan.

high bid

I just recently replaced my 4 batts w/Interstate. 2 type 24 and 2type 27. The last set of Wally mart batts lasted 6 yr. I used trickle chargers and believe the low 1.5amp helped maintain and extend the life of the batts.