Crossover cooling help
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: rapid city, sd
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Crossover cooling help
I thought ide start a more specific thread here. My MPI mag 502 has an inter cooled M3 Pro charger kit with an ATI crossover water system on it. Up in SD the water is to cold to get the temp up enough to come out of warm up enrichment mode at 105 degrees. I can have it re tuned to a lower setting or even off but the tuner also told me I should work on getting the temp up to the 120 130 range or so.
Does anyone know why procharger recommends to remove the thermostat?
I can see the water pressure being a problem but there are water bypass kits priced decently that seem like they would help this.
Im thinking about installing a pressure regulator kit on this boat just after my sea pump and route the line to the driver side of the boat where my inter cooler water exits. Set it at 25 psi. Then maybe try a water restrictor or T stat and see what I can do. Im also thinking about installing a 1-1/4" ball valve on my inlet side of the sea pump with the idea in mind that I could close it part way and slow the incoming water down some so it doesn't pass through the block as fast. Im thinking this would be similar to the restrictor but since its before the sea pump, it wouldn't raise my water pressure.
The pressure relief kit uses a 5/8s" line but if that didn't release enough volume and or pressure I could add a second one in line to help.
Ide like some thoughts from some of you more experienced guys that know more about this please. Thanks!
The T stat idea seems like the best because it would warm up the fastest and the temp should be more consistent but the down side I see would be the exh manifolds would run dry until the stat opened. Assuming the pressure wasn't to high before the stat opened up, would this hurt the manifolds? there dana marine torque flow deals with stainless risers.
Does anyone know why procharger recommends to remove the thermostat?
I can see the water pressure being a problem but there are water bypass kits priced decently that seem like they would help this.
Im thinking about installing a pressure regulator kit on this boat just after my sea pump and route the line to the driver side of the boat where my inter cooler water exits. Set it at 25 psi. Then maybe try a water restrictor or T stat and see what I can do. Im also thinking about installing a 1-1/4" ball valve on my inlet side of the sea pump with the idea in mind that I could close it part way and slow the incoming water down some so it doesn't pass through the block as fast. Im thinking this would be similar to the restrictor but since its before the sea pump, it wouldn't raise my water pressure.
The pressure relief kit uses a 5/8s" line but if that didn't release enough volume and or pressure I could add a second one in line to help.
Ide like some thoughts from some of you more experienced guys that know more about this please. Thanks!
The T stat idea seems like the best because it would warm up the fastest and the temp should be more consistent but the down side I see would be the exh manifolds would run dry until the stat opened. Assuming the pressure wasn't to high before the stat opened up, would this hurt the manifolds? there dana marine torque flow deals with stainless risers.
Last edited by Fordtrucks; 06-04-2014 at 03:10 PM.
#3
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: rapid city, sd
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a gauge on my dash that reads from the top of my T stat housing. Hasn't broke 100 degrees while running since last summer at the peak of the season when the previous owner ran it. Hit almost 120 at that time. If I do a hard run then stop and shut it off for a bit, the re start the temp will be above 100 a bit and it runs better until you take off again then the temp drops and it gets rich again. Im confident the gauge is working properly.
#4
All of the blower motors that I know of run around 100 degrees, I ran my Procharged motor like that for years. I would have the tuner drop the warm up enrichment threshold to 95 and see how it runs. It's only a suggestion, do what you want.
#5
Registered
the way procharger set up these engines is a bandaid, one way to help keep out of detonation is running colder, remember they do not retune the ECM normally, just jack up the fuel pressure and run cold, but the cold is not a bad thing on a supercharged setup anyway, I run a M3 as well, but with our own EFI and still use the procharger crossover and no stat, 100 deg is about all I see as well...
#6
Registered
iTrader: (3)
I havent ran a thermostat in years on my supercharged engines. Temp gauge never goes over 100*, if it does, I have a problem like a plugged strainer, impeller, etc. I run an oil thermostat to help get oil temp up, which still takes about 5-10 minutes of 3000-3500RPM to get it up to 180*. At wot, I hit 210* on the oil temp max.
#7
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: rapid city, sd
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I really like the idea of at least getting the oil temp up. Ide be very interested in pics or a more detailed description of how you set that up. Sounds like I'll let go of the idea of trying to warm it up so much and just re tune it. Arizona speed and marine tuned it originally and said he can turn the enrichment warm up mode off. He said it will start and run for a few minutes in a cold start mode then switch to warm up mode, which we can turn off.
#8
Something like this will warm up your oil if you have a cooler in the system, http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-26869...k-adapter.aspx
#10