stimleck

Dumb question does this method require a special timing light?
I only understand how to set base timing

Thx

stimleck

Anyone?

ROB FREEMAN

iTrader: (2)

i feel if you are asking this question . you should have someone check youre timming . not bashing but one mistake and boom you wont be worring about youre timming my friend .. just saying not judging

buck35

Sage advice there +1

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

Just to answer your question - if the balancer is marked with timing marks or timing tape all the way to 40* or so, you can use that with a standard timing light. If so, marking the 34* hash mark with some white paint will make your job easier. Alternately, you can buy a timing light with the advance dial and dial it up to 34* total timing. When revving the engine to the point where timing is "all in" (this will vary according to the ignition module), the large mark on the balancer (0*) should line up with the pointer for 0* on the timing tab. In other words, with the light dialed in it should look just like a standard light with timing set at 0* BTDC.

donzi matt

iTrader: (1)

I'm not a fan of the dial advance lights anymore, there is far too much room for error. I ran a Snap-On dial advance light for years, and never really liked adjusting it. Borrowed a digital Snap-On from a coworker to verify timing on my small block marine motor I set to 32 degrees with the dial light. I set it for 32 degrees and remeasured to find actual timing at 36 degrees. This year I bought a used digital Snap-On from ebay, and double checked my 454's on launch (previously set with dial light) and found one motor at 38 and one at 36 when they both should have been at 34. It might work fine for a Honda or other pedestrian motor, but I will never use it again. Also having the tach feature makes it very convenient to verify full advance before setting timing.

SB

iTrader: (1)

I have an old Sears advance timing light that has see a bazzillion motors. Turds, mild, NOS, Nos+NOS, NOS+NOS+NOS, and S/C, and more turds, and some decent schit , and more Turds, and Sunbeams, and ................lol.

Never an issue with too much timing problems on motors.

However, I had luxury of going to many dyno's for things and would always compare with the engine builders.

I have seen more Snappy Digital lights not read correctly......compared to those with the old Sears units. Which was right ? Dunno, but I had seen a few engines melt being set with the Snappy. So, my experience stays with what works for whatever reason.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

I totally agree with you guys. I'll take an old Sears timing light, sunpro, or even the cheaper basic Actron timing light over most of the newer fancy ones.

stimleck

The sad thing is both friends are mechanics, one is the service manager of an auto dealership, neither of them know either. The timing marks only go so high.
I am the first to give credit to skilled marine mechanics and skilled boat owners. This project has kicked my ass



QUOTE=buck35;4147220]Sage advice there +1[/QUOTE]

SB

iTrader: (1)

Rev motor unitl the ignition stops advancing .

Keep the motor at just above that rpm.

Turn the advance dial on your gun until the the mark stays steady at 0 degrees. Look at your dial. This is your total advance.

Now you can return to idle and move distributor base for timing adjustments and go back thru all steps above.

#2: Kick your buddies in the nuts !!!!!!!!!!! Because I'm older I am one of a few around here that can rebuild a carburetor and use an advance timing light. Sad huh ?

Young guys brought up on just EFI have a lot to learn. Old basic motors - liked carbed marine motors - will actually help people understand EFI because you learn what the motor wants.

Your 1st year + in accounting school you have to push paper. Why ? So you know what the computer programs you'll be using are trying to accomplish.