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higer oil temp after rebuild, bypass??

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higer oil temp after rebuild, bypass??

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Old 07-01-2014, 02:52 PM
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double post

Last edited by BUP; 07-01-2014 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:06 PM
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Also make sure water flow is still running opposite of oil flow in coolers, besides that I would look at 11lb valve issues.. make sure 30lb valve is used, if not sure then just replace it anyway with one....how much time is on it Ron? before he runs it again for the 10.00, cut the oil filter open and make sure that's all good and there isn't a reason for hot oil.....
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Old 07-01-2014, 06:43 PM
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another suggestion would be to make sure Teflon tape was NOT used on the oil temp sender

they are designed to be installed dry. the sensor needs a good connection from the block to work properly.
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Old 07-01-2014, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 4bus
Have a friend with twin 500EFIs. One was rebuild top to bottom this past winter, the other got a top end fresh. Now oil temp is 50+ degrees different, not off the charts but different. He is running in real cold water (Great Lakes) 52 degrees. Oil temps on hot engine runs 190 to 230 and climbing when running hard. Cool engine 150 to 180 running hard. Water temp is exactly the same, exactly.
With the #'s given I'd be more concerned with the too cold motor. IE: 150°-180°F running hard.
If not gauge or sender, could be the oil t-stat.
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:18 PM
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When properly setup, oil temp should ,reach max temperature and stay there until the boat runs out of gas. it should not continue to climb into the danger zone.

I would have to agree with checking the sending unit for proper ground, along with the oil temp gauge for proper ground to start. Sounds like you covered the basics with the impeller and water flow. The thermostat element can be changed, i wanna say they are about 30 bucks or so. Bad thing is I think on the 500EFI the element is in the block adapter, which would totally suck accessing to swap it out i would think.

That element should be fully opening allowing full flow to the cooler, around 210*. They dont start opening till around 180-190. If its not electrical, could very well be the element simply isnt opening, and never allowing full flow to the cooler. In the cold water we boat in, I wouldnt be surprised if that engine isnt seeing 190-230 running without an oil cooler (stuck oil thermostat).
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:21 PM
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Mr Forbus, I have tested the element before in a pot of water and recorded the temp/movement of the element. That test is 2 years old and going off my memory. I have a brand new mercury 8161631 element here on my desk. I will retest now, and report back. Stay tuned.

Update. Oven thermometer wasnt working. Attempted dissassembly. Metal housing on thermometer sliced thumb open, blood everywhere. Thumb not looking good. Hurts. Wrapped in gauze. Looking for new thermometer.

Last edited by MILD THUNDER; 07-01-2014 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
Mr Forbus, I have tested the element before in a pot of water and recorded the temp/movement of the element. That test is 2 years old and going off my memory. I have a brand new mercury 8161631 element here on my desk. I will retest now, and report back. Stay tuned.

Update. Oven thermometer wasnt working. Attempted dissassembly. Metal housing on thermometer sliced thumb open, blood everywhere. Thumb not looking good. Hurts. Wrapped in gauze. Looking for new thermometer.
This is how most of my experiments in the name of science work out.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by donzi matt
This is how most of my experiments in the name of science work out.
As you must know already, if you don't bleed, you didn't do it correctly.

Also, be more nervous about no bolts/nuts left over than having some left over.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:12 PM
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is it possible that newer tighter motor, less oil spraying around and more staying in the bearings longer gives oil more time to heat up?
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:20 PM
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I agree shoot the filters with a temp gun first. Also, while unlikely, is it possible that one engine is reading the temps after the cooler and one before? Maybe hose routing after the rebuild?
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