Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (1)

I was actually going to grab a new engine circulation pump, because it does look like an original.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

That would figure and most likely is the original wc pump. I have no idea why these never get changed out even from a hardship from people not pulling the hose to drain them for winterizations.

You need to change your whole impeller / housing kit and do the bottom base while someone is in there. You have the classic overheating problem with that set up.

Also make sure your water pocket housing assembly is not over heated either as that would have to be changed to. When you pull the lower its up underside in the upper the water tube connects to. Sometimes its wise just to change that as well. Probably the original also.

payuppsucker

Not to hijack but I had an 86 Chaparral 235 with twin 260s back in the day. Hard motors to beat.

dereknkathy

as long as u have drive split, check seal on top of vert drive shaft. they all rot away. I THINK it may just be an outer seal to keep water out, but...

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (1)

Well, I tried going out yesterday.....it wasn't good. Hard to start then finally got it going. Then right after I planed out, doing only 35..... The engine just shut off. Then hard to restart. Got her running, then about 10 minutes later, same thing. I had to get towed in....I was pissed to say the least!! The crankcase smells like gas, so I think I'll be replacing the fuel pump.

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (1)

So I put the garden hose onto the lower unit today. I started the boat up and it warmed up to 200 quickly so I shut her down. I pulled the muffs off and found little pieces of rubber laying on the ground. I pulled the intake screens off and the whole intake was full of little shards of rubber.

Looks like I'll be pulling my lower unit off to change the impeller. Great!!

The guy I bought the boat from said the impeller was new....evidentially he was full of crap!!

BUP

iTrader: (9)

Thought you have change this out before you even went to the lake. As I mentioned so in post # 8 about changing the impeller and whole kit so again do yourself a favor change it with a complete kit and the bottom base also as I am sure it just might be blistered from overheating.

Also check the water pocket cover assembly & gasket as you might have burnt that up as well. If you do not do this you will be overheating again in a very short order. I am not trying to kick you in the teeth here but really trying to get my point across here as to what you needed to do.

Also most family rec boaters that are do it yourselfers, do more damage than good working on their own boats. If the old owner changed the impeller with new, I would bet that the reinstall was done incorrectly. When you got towed in what was your temp gauge reading just before your motor shut down ? Anyways good luck.

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (1)

I will do the whole kit, I mean for a few bucks more it's worth it. When I was towed in I was at 150*. I was only able to run the engine for about 5 to 10 minutes at a time. I think the water pressure caused by the boat moving was assisting the failing impeller.

When I was out in the driveway checking things over, I found the pins in the main harness were all collapsed closed. I could wiggle the harness and cause the engine to sputter. I opened the pins up and plugged the harness back in. The plug actually clicked in place and after I snugged up the clamp I couldn't cause the engine to sputter.

BTW....I should've done the impeller before I went out, so I don't feel like you're riding me. I'm just bummed I let my son down he was really looking forward to that day on the water.

SB

iTrader: (1)

If you haven't done it before, here are good directions:
http://www.mercstuff.com/waterpumpinst.htm

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input.