7.4L merc rebuild questions HELP!
#21
Thanks for the heads up on that. Will have the family with me, so won't be getting too crazy. Still, we will wrap the "adult sodas" in can wraps and huggies. I make can wraps by grinding the top and bottom off an aluminum soda can with a belt sander and then cutting it down the side. Slips right over a beer can, and makes it look like you are drinking a Mountain Dew, Pepsi, whatever. Stealth mode.
#22
Dale, when you get your engine built over the winter, I would recommend running it on a dyno to break it in and get your fuel / timing dialed in. I had mine donw by Dale Meers in Buffalo, KY, right outside Hodgenville. He does a lot of MOPARS, but does BBC stuff too. $400 to run a full day on the dyno. Money well spent. Another guy to talk to is Eddie Young in Tenn. He posts on here frequently, and specializes in performance marine builds. Good luck.
#23
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Journals look fine however I haven't plastigauged anything the #1and 2bearing were spun but not demolished makes me feel like it spun when crank broke??? Everything else looked virtually new
#25
I would stay away from using plastigauge on a performance marine build. Needs to be done with a good set of micrometers. Most folks are aiming for .0030 on the mains and .0027 on the rods. Lots of other critical clearances that should be checked too.
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Thanks! I'll definitely take that into consideration any other tips are much appreciated
#29
Here's a big one - if you have a Gen V / VI motor, make sure you have the correct oil bypass valve installed in the filter pad on the block. Car / truck applications used an 11 lb valve; boats require a 30 lb valve, due to the restriction from the extra lines for the oil cooler and remote filter. If you don't change this out, you will kick the bypass and send hot dirty oil to your bearings. Alternately you can plug it alltogether. Do a search on the General section under the Technical subforum.