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Old 11-16-2014, 07:06 PM
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Default Oil Pan repair

Pulled the hurt motor out of the Velocity 280 i bought. while the engine is being built i figured i would clean up and spray the valve covers and oil pan that was on the old motor to re-use. the oil pan is a teague 10qt by the looks of it. i found a small crack, around 2" long in the bottom . i assume the genius who built and installed this motor probably set it on the pan. explains the milkshake oil after the first run. probably taking in water from the bilge. my question is, would it be safe to weld and grind this oil pan? i hate to shell out $700 on a new one. i'm no stranger to metal work, and i don't see it being an issue really... just curious
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:10 PM
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Explains the milkshake ? You have that much water in the bilge ? Did oil leak out of the crack ? I'm sure a good welder can fix it. If no one local, you could always send it to Teague.
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:18 PM
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Cracked block is where the milky oil came from. Not the pan/bilge. I would blast the whole pan before fixing it and examine to be sure there is no other damage or corrosion that could lead to future issues.
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
Explains the milkshake ? You have that much water in the bilge ? Did oil leak out of the crack ? I'm sure a good welder can fix it. If no one local, you could always send it to Teague.
I'm still trying to play detective to figure out exactly what happened with this motor. My blocked was cracked in the two rear banks, it hydrolocked, all cylinders were full of water when i pulled the heads and there was water in the pan as well as mixed with the oil. All i'm keeping is the intake, pan, and valve covers. Starting fresh instead of chasing someone elses mistakes
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Baja226sport
Cracked block is where the milky oil came from. Not the pan/bilge. I would blast the whole pan before fixing it and examine to be sure there is no other damage or corrosion that could lead to future issues.
Yup. Definitly gonna check it all over after sandblast
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:42 AM
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all cyl full sounds like exhausts. iron heads in salt? they rot at the valve guides but usually only 1 or 2 cyls will fail that bad at same time. i wouldn't scrap the block out of hand. they are the toughest part unless it froze. but no way did water come in from a crack in bottom of pan unless lots of oil leaked out. pour some acetone into pan. if it doesn't run out, water didn't run in.
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Old 11-19-2014, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dereknkathy
all cyl full sounds like exhausts. iron heads in salt? they rot at the valve guides but usually only 1 or 2 cyls will fail that bad at same time. i wouldn't scrap the block out of hand. they are the toughest part unless it froze. but no way did water come in from a crack in bottom of pan unless lots of oil leaked out. pour some acetone into pan. if it doesn't run out, water didn't run in.
You wouldn't scrap the block? He says its cracked in 2 cylinders.
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Old 11-19-2014, 12:28 PM
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this boat is new to me, so i'm just tossing the whole thing and doing it right the first time. fresh gen 6 block, forged 496 stroker rotating assembly, gonna contact Bob M for a cam grind, new Brodix heads, new holley 850 carb... i pressure tested my dana products exhaust and it seems fine.

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Old 11-19-2014, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackedout02
this boat is new to me, so i'm just tossing the whole thing and doing it right the first time. fresh gen 6 block, forged 496 rotating assembly, gonna contact Bob M for a cam grind, new Brodix heads, new holley 850 carb... i pressure tested my dana products exhaust and it seems fine.
Sounds like your on the right path with your call to Bob.
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Old 12-06-2014, 05:09 AM
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clean it, weld it, grind it, paint it.
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