No Coast

Agreed, I didn't mean to imply he was cheap. I think if he does it correctly he will have more parts left over than used. Carburetor engines are fine but they are not EFI. Super chargers work but are far from bolt on. He can make 600 on the dyno that may make minimal difference in the boat due to lack of torque, it will sound kool though.

SB

iTrader: (1)

Thank God. LOL.

Mr Maine

That is like laproscopic surgery..haha

buck35

Have to agree wholeheartedly with that. If nothing else I'd think he knows some builders close to you that could help you out. Good luck and keep us informed as to what you decide to do.

HaxbySpeed

If 600hp max is your goal, you can do it reliably on the stock long block with about 5lbs boost on 91 octane @5100rpm. I would get some 650cc drop in injectors from RC engineering, this will allow you to use the factory regulator in the rail that's set at 43psi. Remove your factory high pressure pump and get a decent Aeromotive, Weldon, Fuel lab, etc pump that will support 800hp. You can use the factory fuel lines that go into the rail with a couple inverted flare to AN adapters. Top line is pressure, bottom is return. Run the return back to tank if possible. The number 7 injector hole mod can be done while the rail is off, but at 600hp it will not be an issue if you don't. I'd use a holley HP EFI ecu and harness. It will plug in to all your factory sensors, and a 2 bar map sensor that will fit right in the factory location. Super reliable, simple combo.

Diamond Dave

How would this recipe change if you wanted say 700?

HaxbySpeed

I haven't tried it with the stock cam, but I'm sure it's possible. Everything would be the same but you'll need bigger injectors from RC, and a bigger fuel pump. I'd also open up the little feed hole on number 7 injector. If you plan on a lot of wide open throttle, for piece of mind I'd probably open up the ring gap a touch. The rotators are surprisingly durable and will handle the power without issue as long as the tune up is safe. Regular Fel pro 17048 head gasket is fine, and the factory head bolts are fine too, but a set of ARP's is a cheap upgrade.

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

Just go get your parts and be done with it. Do the heads, cam, carb and intake route and build some good ol old school power. Sure you'll need some other good guy parts in addition to the list but just do it. With that said I'd guess btwn 5 to 6k min a side to do it right. *****How many hours are on your engines since freshened? Either way it's without a doubt a much better job done with engines out of the boat. I've done numerous similar jobs inside the boat and all in all less time to do same job pulling the engines. Now when you have them pulled you should at the very least pull the pan and inspect bearings etc.

So what went from a 5-6k bolt on deal could easily go to 8-10k. Machine work, cleaning, bearings, timing chain and gears and so on.

So maybe No Coast isn't far off by recommending to pull and sell your current engines and start over.

Per side cost just a rough est. assuming all internals are all good in the hood.

Heads 3,500.00
Inkake 450.00
Cam 400.00
Lifters. 800.00
gaskets 200.00
Pushrods. 150.00
Fuel pump. 150.00
R&R engine. 500.00
6,150.00 per side. (Basic)


This is just a ref of course however doesn't include any machine work or labor of any kind other than engine R&R if you chose to do so. Also parts can vary depending on a lot of factors. It's easy to spend 3k per set on just head alone however there is a lot of power to be made there.

14 apache

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget carburetors

No Coast

Ignition must be stand alone also for naturally aspirated. Stock head gaskets are fine until you get one load of junk fuel with the supercharger. Cosmetics will withstand some mild detonation since the computer will compensate some, stock will fail immediately.